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Electric cars or ‘green cars’, as they are popularly known, are leaving the fuel-powered cars far behind since they offer many advantages like low gasoline costs, comparatively low maintenance costs and ‘zero emission’ factor. Lacking any combustion engine, they are operated through batteries and electric motors. However, they, too, require to be looked after. Auto provides the best electric car services.
A broken car thermostat can significantly impact how a car runs. Learn about a thermostat’s function, signs that it may be faulty, and how to troubleshoot problems.
A thermostat regulates the temperature of coolant in a car, helping the engine operate at an ideal temperature. The thermostat is a valve located between the engine and the radiator, and it closes or opens based on the engine’s temperature. It stays closed when the engine is cold and opens as it heats up, allowing coolant to flow to the radiator to cool the engine.
An overheated engine: This is the most common symptom of a bad thermostat. If corrosion or age has caused the thermostat to remain closed, the coolant won’t flow to the radiator, and the engine can overheat. This will be indicated in a high temperature reading on your dashboard temperature gauge.
Unusual temperature readings: Keep an eye on the dashboard temperature gauge for fast jumps from normal to hot or unexpected fluctuations. These could be caused by a faulty thermostat sending mixed signals to the gauge.
Low coolant levels: An improperly working thermostat can lead to low coolant levels in the radiator. If you suspect thermostat issues, you could consider visually checking your coolant levels. When the vehicle is off and completely cool, open the hood and find the radiator and coolant reservoir. The reservoir is probably made of clear plastic so you can see the fill line and the coolant level.
Issues with the vehicle’s heat: During cold weather, it could take a long time for the heat to be noticeable, or the temperature in the car may just never feel warm enough.
Lower fuel efficiency: An engine that isn’t running optimally can lead to poorer fuel economy.
Before replacing a thermostat, it’s essential to run a test to confirm that it’s faulty. However, always remember to work on a cool engine, use gloves and eye protection, ensure that there’s plenty of ventilation, and consult professionals if you need assistance. Safety should always be a priority when dealing with car maintenance.
Feel the radiator hose: When the engine is warming up, a cold hose may indicate that the thermostat isn’t working properly.
Use an OBD-II scanner: This device allows you to check engine temperature variances. With the ignition off, plug the scanner into the OBD-II port, which is usually under the dashboard on the driver’s side of the car. From there, follow instructions on the scanner for additional information that might be needed, then read any diagnostic codes and view live data and sensor readings.
Perform the boiling water test: Placing the thermostat in water and bringing it to a boil lets you see how it performs. Follow these steps to test your thermostat:
It’s possible to drive with a bad thermostat, but it’s not recommended. Doing so can cause your car to overheat, leading to severe engine damage that will be costly to repair.
Always use safety precautions and consult a professional for help when needed. Follow the steps below to replace a faulty thermostat yourself:
A coolant leak can be a really dangerous problem for your vehicle. The cooling system is essential for regulating engine temperature and preventing overheating, making it crucial to identify and address coolant leaks promptly.
In this blog, we’ll explore the symptoms and causes of coolant leaks, the seriousness of the issue, and the potential cost of repairs.
The cost of repairing a coolant leak can vary depending on several factors, including the cause of the leak, the extent of the damage, and the make and model of your vehicle. However, compared to the potential damage and costs associated with engine overheating, addressing a coolant leak promptly is relatively affordable.
If you’ve sat in your car, turned on the heat for a few minutes, and feel cold air blowing instead of warm, you’re not alone. While frustrating, it’s a common issue during cold weather. Here are a few reasons why this could be happening and what you can do to fix.
One of the main reasons your heater could be blowing cold air is your coolant is low. The coolant’s job is to keep the engine from overheating, and it’s the main source of heat that supports the heating system. The heater will blow cold air into your car if there isn’t enough coolant in the system. For many vehicles, checking for low coolant is pretty simple. Pop your hood and find the coolant reservoir and check to see if the coolant is at the right level. If it’s low, you can fill it to the prescribed level with the appropriate coolant fluid. A leak could also be the cause of the cold air, so make sure to check for leaks. If you’re not comfortable doing this yourself, you can go to an auto-parts store and ask for help.
The job of a car’s thermostat is to regulate the flow of coolant through the engine. There are a few signs to look for when a car thermostat is failing. For example, the dashboard temperature gauge reads high, and the engine overheats, the temperature changes erratically, or the coolant leaks around the thermostat. Fortunately, car thermostats aren’t that expensive to replace. The average one costs only $8, so it makes more sense to replace your thermostat rather than fixing it.
There’s also a chance your heater isn’t working correctly due to issues with the heater core, or a small radiator that uses the hot coolant from the engine to warm the car’s cabin. Either the coolant isn’t traveling through the heater core correctly, the blower motor air isn’t reaching the heater core or a clog is possibly blocking the heater core. It’s important to resolve this issue as soon as possible, as it can damage your engine and lead to it overheating.
If you notice a sweet-smelling odor, fog in the car’s cabin or your car is using up coolant too quickly, it could be a sign that you have heater core issues. Most of the time, this can be solved by flushing the heater core passage or by manually removing any debris that has clogged it. In rare cases, you might need to install a new heater core.
Another common problem with heaters is a water leak. Check your hoses, radiator and water pump for damage, as any of these have the potential to leak and cause your car heater to not work properly. If you notice a leak, contact your local auto repair shop to look at your heating system as soon as you see it. If you leave the issue without fixing it, it can cause major issues down the road.
The last potential cause for your heater blowing cool air instead of hot is that the heating controls might be jammed. If your car is somewhat older, it’s possible for your heating buttons and control to become clogged or broken. If all the other possible causes have been checked and aren’t a problem, then it might be time to replace some of the control buttons or your heater control valve.
Winters are unkind to drivers. Slick roads, waiting several minutes for your car to warm up in the frigid weather, and trying to keep snow, sleet, and freezing rain off your windshield.
Today’s blog showcases how to de-ice your windshield and keep the ice off as you drive to your destination.
Your primary tool is an ice scraper for removing ice on your windshield. Purchase a plastic and not a metal one because metal can scratch the glass and damage the wiper blades.
Start with the edges of your windshield rather than the middle. If you start in the middle, you may be tempted to pound your way to the windshield to get an edge underneath the ice. Rather than using force, use heat to loosen the ice.
The key to heating your windshield comes from your vehicle’s defroster. Before you lift your scraper, start your car’s engine, set the air conditioning to defrost, and set it to recirculate. Set the controls to full heat. As your engine warms up, the heat will get more intense.
Eventually, the ice against your windshield will soften. Then you can get your scraper’s edge against your windshield and remove the ice. Go slowly and smoothly to prevent ice chips from spraying around your eyes and face.
The key to this process is patience. It may take 10 to 15 minutes for your vehicle’s heater to get warm enough to start melting the ice. Then, it could take another few minutes for the ice against the windshield to become soft enough to scrape the ice off.
However, this method will reduce the physical effort required to de-ice your windshield. It might even take more time to exert yourself while trying to get through the ice on your windshield than waiting for your heater to get warm. The trick is to leave enough time (maybe an extra 20 to 30 minutes) to de-ice your windshield before starting out on your trip.
Once you clear your windshield of ice, you need to keep it clear.
You can purchase de-icing fluid that goes in your windshield wiper fluid reservoir under the hood. However, that doesn’t work if your windshield has ice on it. Set some aside, fill up a spray bottle, and spray it on your windshield to loosen some of the ice. This method works because the de-icing fluid has a lower freezing point than water. Once the ice is loose, scrape it away.
Although not as effective as commercially available de-icing fluid, you can fill a spray bottle with water and add a few scoops of rock salt. The rock salt will lower the freezing point of the ice, allowing you to get under the ice more easily than without it.
There are two keys to keeping ice off of your windshield while driving. First, keep your defroster on hot, even at a low setting. This will keep your windshield from fogging up. Second, use your windshield wipers to keep snow, sleet, or freezing rain from cluttering your view and covering the glass.
If your car is parked outside, use a windshield cover to protect your wiper blades. They range in price from $10 to $30. If not, cover your windshield with a large towel or tarp. Before putting it on your windshield, soak the cover in diluted saltwater to prevent the cloth from freezing to the windshield if the precipitation starts as a liquid and then freezes.
There are some ways not to de-ice your windshield, even though you may think they are convenient. Do not use hot or boiling water to de-ice your windshield. Not only will the water refreeze and make the icy windshield worse, but the sudden hot temperatures could crack your windshield due to thermal shock.
One DIY remedy includes a mix of vinegar and water. But this doesn’t work well since vinegar can corrode chrome and your vehicle’s paint job. Worse, vinegar may cause micro-pitting on the windshield glass, meaning very small holes could form. Over time, as more debris lands on the windshield at high speed, cracks could form more readily.
Have you ever found yourself on a long drive, glancing nervously at the gas gauge as it sits dangerously close to empty? You’re not alone.
But what happens when the gas gauge stops working? It’s a scenario we’d all rather avoid, but it’s better to be prepared. Understanding how our vehicle’s gas gauge works and why it may stop working is essential knowledge for any driver. This article will delve into the common causes of gas gauge failure, providing practical advice and precautionary measures to help you avoid such situations.
The gas gauge — an essential component in your vehicle — plays a vital role in alerting you when it’s time to refuel. It’s part of a complex system made of 3 main components: the gauge, the sender, and the circuit. These components work together to keep you informed of how much fuel is left in your tank. But problems can occur.
The most common causes of faulty gas gauges include sending unit failure, a blown fuse, circuit problems, and instrument cluster failure. We’ll discuss each in detail below.
A faulty fuel gauge resistor in the sending unit can send full voltage to the fuel gauge at all times, causing it to read as full regardless of the actual fuel level. Other symptoms of a faulty fuel-sending unit include a fuel gauge getting stuck on empty or full and the fuel gauge behaving erratically. It’s like having a broken watch that either always reads 12 o’clock or jumps from time to time randomly.
One common cause of a blown fuse is corrosion. Over time, elements such as moisture and salt can cause corrosion, leading to electrical issues that can blow a fuse. Once the fuse for the instrument panel is blown, it can affect the fuel gauge, making it read incorrectly or not at all.
Corroded wires are typically caused by exposure to moisture, chemicals, or environmental factors such as salt or pollution. When corrosion occurs, it can lead to voltage and current flow degradation. When corrosion interferes with the electrical flow in your vehicle’s wiring, it can cause the gas gauge to read incorrectly.
Circuit issues can also lead to problems with your gas gauge. These issues could stem from a lack of source voltage or an interrupted ground. If the circuit delivering information between the sending unit (fuel level sensor) and the gas gauge is interrupted, the gauge may provide inaccurate readings. One common cause of circuit problems is poor-quality wire insulation.
Instrument cluster failure is the least common cause of gas gauge failure. However, if it does occur, it’s often the most expensive problem to fix. This is because modern instrument clusters are fully integrated circuits and may not even feature replaceable bulbs. If the gas gauge fails as part of the cluster, the entire unit must be replaced.
The most obvious risk of driving with a faulty gas gauge is running out of fuel unexpectedly. This could potentially leave you stranded on the side of the road. More than the inconvenience of being stuck, running your vehicle on low fuel can cause the fuel pump to overheat.
Also, if your gas gauge isn’t working properly, allowing your tank to be constantly close to empty, debris can settle at the bottom of your fuel tank and cause problems with your fuel system.
There are several tests to check the gas gauge. Be sure to consult with a professional if you’re not experience with safe vehicle maintenance practices. They include:
More than 132 million people are expected to travel for Thanksgiving this year. Most will likely be from the Mid-Atlantic region (New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania) and the busiest travel day will be the Sunday after Thanksgiving,
If you’re planning to travel by car, try to avoid the peak travel times and follow these American Red Cross tips to help keep you safe:
If winter weather threatens and you become stuck in the snow, these tips are for you:
An ignition coil, as its name suggests, plays a vital role in igniting the engine. This small yet potent device delivers up to 60,000 volts of power to the spark plugs to ensure your vehicle’s smooth operation. You can find the ignition coil nestled within the engine compartment. The heart of your vehicle’s performance lies in its ignition system, with the ignition coil playing a starring role. Keeping it maintained will help to have a smooth, efficient drive.
The ignition coil functions as a power transformer. It takes the 12-volt charge from your car battery and transforms it into something much more potent. This converted voltage, which can reach up to 60,000 volts, is what your spark plugs need to ignite the fuel-and-air mixture within the engine’s combustion chambers. Without a functioning ignition coil, the spark plug would not receive the necessary voltage to create the spark needed to ignite the fuel-air mix.
Where is it? The location of your ignition coil depends on the make and model of your vehicle. One common location is attached to the spark plugs on top of the engine block.
Understanding the different types of ignition coils can be incredibly helpful, especially when it comes to maintaining your vehicle or diagnosing potential problems.
Conventional ignition coils, often referred to as canister-style coils, were very common in older vehicles. The design of these coils is quite simple: A metal canister houses the primary and secondary windings. They typically sit outside the engine and are wired to a distributor, which then takes on the responsibility of distributing the high voltage from the coil to the spark plugs. Despite their simplicity, conventional ignition coils are known for their durability and reliability.
As technology advanced, so did ignition coils. Enter the distributorless ignition system (DIS) coils. These coils represent a significant step forward in ignition technology. Instead of relying on a distributor, DIS coils are usually mounted directly on or near the spark plugs. Each coil is tasked with supplying high voltage to a specific spark plug. This design allows for more precise timing of spark production for each cylinder, thanks to the use of sensors. The result is improved ignition performance and efficiency over conventional coils.
Taking the concept of DIS coils a notch higher, we have the coil-on-plug (COP) ignition coils. In a COP system, each cylinder gets its own personal ignition coil, which is mounted directly on the spark plug. This setup eliminates the need for spark plug wires, allowing for even more precise and efficient ignition. COP ignition coils provide enhanced spark energy and better control over combustion. The outcomes are improved engine performance and reduced emissions.
How can you tell if your ignition coil is failing and needs attention? Here are some common signs:
On average, a well-maintained ignition coil should last around 100,000 miles. However, this can vary depending on factors like your driving habits, vehicle make and model, and even the climate you live in. It’s important to remember that preventive maintenance is always better than reactive repairs. Regular check-ups can assist in identifying potential issues before they develop into more severe (and expensive) complications. So, if your check engine light has been flickering or your engine is misfiring, it’s best to schedule a visit to your mechanic sooner rather than later.
Understanding your vehicle, including the vital role of the ignition coil, ensures smooth and efficient driving. However, even with impeccable maintenance, unforeseen issues can arise. Having the right auto insurance is key to protecting your car from unexpected repair costs and other road-related incidents. It not only gives you peace of mind but also helps to ensure that you get back on the road without worrying about financial implications.
Taking time to prepare your car for winter weather is a smart way to help make time on the road safer and more comfortable.
Snow, ice and freezing temperatures can affect the way cars operate and make driving more difficult and hazardous. Ensuring your car is prepared for winter can help put you in the best possible position to safely navigate winter driving.
Planning ahead is the best rule of thumb for winterizing your car. While the arrival of winter conditions will vary based on where you live, starting on the checklist below in the autumn will help you be ready before the first icy blast.
Here are the 11 parts of your vehicle you should winterize to get ready for the cold.
Along with these maintenance tips, ensure your vehicle has a winter emergency kit and the right auto insurance coverage before you hit the road this winter.
Knowing when to replace your brake pads is important, however, knowing what causes them to fail is equally crucial. If you think your brakes are broken while on the road, do not continue driving. It might cause a serious accident. It’s best to get to the side of the road as safely as possible and get help. To avoid this from happening, here are the most common causes of brake failure that you have to know:
The brake fluid provides the force created when you press the brake pedal. This force is applied to each of the brake rotors on the four corners of your car. When pressure is applied effectively, the wheels slow or stop the movement of the car.
If there’s a leak in your brake fluid, it can cause a loss of brake pressure which means your car won’t be able to stop. You’ll know if your brake fluid is leaking when there’s liquid dripping from your engine down to the floor. If you notice a leak, get it repaired and replaced first before driving.
The brake cylinder is a hydraulic pump that feeds brake fluid into the brake circuit to convert the pressure on the brake pedal to hydraulic pressure. A bad brake cylinder can cause your braking system to lose power.
If the brake fluid is leaking past the seals inside the cylinder, your brake pedal may feel firm for a moment but it won’t hold steady. You will start to feel it go spongy, and mushy, and may sink far down when pressed.
As the name suggests, a brake booster helps to boost the performance of your brakes. This makes it easier for you to brake by increasing the force exerted without the need for the additional force applied on the foot pedal.
If the brake booster fails, it loses the ability to amplify the force from your foot. This means you’ll have to use more effort when stepping on your brake pedal. This can reduce the hydraulic pressure in the brake fluid, making it harder to brake.
A CV (constant velocity) axle is a critical component in a vehicle’s drivetrain, responsible for transferring power from the transmission to the wheels while allowing for flexible movement. Here are five signs that may indicate a failing CV axle: