How to Get Your Car Unstuck from Snow

Getting stuck in the middle of a big pile of snow or on a stretch of ice can be an all-too-common occurrence during the cold winter months. Luckily, we have a few tips and tricks that can get your car free in no time, even if you don’t have one of the best vehicles for winter driving.

How to prepare for driving in the snow

Before the winter hits and you have to drive in the snow, you should winterize your car and consider stocking it with some winter essentials, including:

• Shovel for snow
• First aid kit
• Car scraper for ice and snow
• Flashlight
• Snow chains for your tires (if appropriate for your location)
• Flares
• Blankets
• Charger for your cellphone
• Tire pressure gauge
• Toolkit
• Sand or kitty litter

Steps to free a car stuck in snow

If your car is stuck in the snow and you have the tools above, you can try a few options to get unstuck. Here are a few things to do first to make sure you get out safely:

  1. Make sure your exhaust pipe is clear to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.
  2. Turn off traction control so that your tires can have full power.
  3. Put the car in the lowest gear to help gain traction.
  4. Roll your window down so you can hear it if your tires start to spin.

If the situation ever becomes unsafe or dangerous, call professional help.

However, if the road is safe and you’ve followed the steps above, it’s time to start working on getting your vehicle out of the snow.

1. Clear a path around your tires

Try to dig snow and ice away from the drive tires. You want to free up a few feet in front of and behind the tires so you can move the car back and forth. This is particularly important if your tires aren’t winterized, or if you haven’t taken steps to prepare your vehicle for the winter. Be sure to also dig out any snow under the front or middle of your car that is higher than its ground clearance.

2. Rock your car free of the snow

Carefully switching from drive to reverse can help dislodge some of the snow around your wheels. But be careful not to wreck your transmission. Putting your foot on the brake at the peak of each “rock,” so the car is motionless when changing gears, this helps. It’s also helpful to shift to neutral for a second before making the transition.

3. Don’t floor the accelerator

You’ll always be tempted to floor it if you’re stuck in snow or ice, but don’t. Go easy on the pedal to give the vehicle just a little gas for a moment, then let off. Repeat to enhance the needed “rocking” motion. It’s momentum that sets you free, not power.

4. Add traction under your tires

If you still can’t get your car free, you can next try to gain traction under your wheels. Things such as sandbags, salt, dirt or even kitty litter can be used when your car is stuck in snow. Throw several handfuls under your tires for improved traction, then try gently accelerating again.

It is also important to remember to turn off traction control if you are stuck in snow. This Traction Control is one of several safety features that can help you keep control of your vehicle if you hit ice on the road, but leaving it on while stuck in snow is a different story. Traction control prevents wheelspin, which is the rotation of a vehicle’s wheels without traction and can sometimes help you get your car out of snow. Remember to turn it back on once you’re back on the road.

5. Get others to help push your car

If you have other people in your car, or friendly onlookers who can help, simply pushing your car out of the snow can be an easy solution. Gently press the gas while the car is being pushed to add additional momentum. Safety always comes first, so make sure you’re in forward gear and the ground isn’t too slippery for helpers to push. Always be sure that everyone is in a safe spot before accelerating. Using snow chains can also help create traction under your tires, making it easier to move through snow and ice.

6. Ask for help

Whether you’re stuck in snow or hit a stretch of ice, remain calm. Don’t do anything abrupt, like slamming on the brakes. If you do that, you’ll transfer your vehicle’s weight to your front wheels, which lightens up the rear and makes it likely that your rear end will spin. Instead, gradually let off the gas and hold the steering steady until you’ve cleared the ice.

What to do when your car is unstuck from snow

Once your car is finally unstuck, keep driving safely. If you have to stop and get out, make sure to get your car to a safe spot first. Once you’re back on the road, drive slowly and safely with your traction control system back on.

Your car getting stuck isn’t the only concern when winter comes along. Snowy and icy pavement can lead to accidents. To help you navigate inclement weather this winter, check out these safety tips for driving in the snow.

TIPS

Top 5 Causes of Low Oil Pressure

Every combustion engine needs oil, fuel, and coolant to work well. Engine oil keeps the engine’s parts lubricated, preventing early wear and tear. This lubrication is what makes your engine last longer and operate reliably.

Your oil system operates smoothly when your engine has sufficient oil and when your oil pump generates enough pressure to circulate it throughout the engine. If your engine’s oil pressure drops, your vehicle may display various warning signs. These may include the illumination of a low oil pressure light on your dashboard, increased engine noise, or the detection of unpleasant burning odors.

But what do these signs signify? Various issues can lead to a decrease in oil pressure, with some being more urgent than others. Here are the top five causes of low oil pressure and the services and repairs your car requires to address each.

1. Not Enough Oil

One of the simplest and most common causes of low oil pressure is a lack of oil in your engine. If the oil levels are too low, your oil pump cannot generate enough pressure to keep your engine lubricated. The potential consequences are reduced lubrication, increased wear and tear, and a higher risk of engine failure.

Follow these steps to check your oil levels and determine if you need a top-off:

  • Ensure your vehicle’s engine is off, then pop the hood open.
  • Locate the oil dipstick, typically identifiable by a yellow ring or handle featuring the stamped oil symbol.
  • Remove the dipstick and wipe off any oil residue from its surface using a rag. Residual oil can lead to inaccurate dipstick readings.
  • Reinsert the dipstick fully, then withdraw it once again.
  • Examine the oil level on the dipstick. Each dipstick typically features two indicators: one for full and another for low levels. You can usually identify the low-level indicator by the word “ADD” or a symbol that indicates that you need to add oil. Your car requires a top-off if the oil level is below this indicator.
  • Refer to your owner’s manual, and use the brand and type of oil your vehicle manufacturer recommends for your specific model and trim level. Some vehicles may indicate the type of oil required on the dipstick or oil cap (e.g., 5W-20).

  • 2. Your Vehicle is Leaking Oil

    Did you recently replace or replenish the oil, only to see a low oil pressure alert a few days later? You could be dealing with an oil leak. Although the indications of an oil leak may initially resemble low oil levels, inspecting for signs of leakage is crucial to prevent unnecessary expenses on oil refills.

    Oil leaks are among the most common causes of low oil pressure in older vehicles. This is because many of their components, such as oil lines, are more prone to wear, deterioration, or damage. If you suspect your car has developed an oil leak, keep an eye out for these signs:

    • Oil spots under your car. Cars with an oil leak typically leave oil puddles on the ground where they were parked. On dry asphalt, oil leaks may appear brown, black, or dark colored. If it recently rained, the water may make the oil appear multicolored instead, giving off a recognizable rainbow pattern on the surface.
    • Smoke from the engine bay. When starting your vehicle, check whether smoke is escaping from the engine bay. Depending on the location of your oil leak, it may fall on hot components, such as the exhaust manifold, burning and causing smoke. If smoke isn’t visible, check for odd scents, such as the smell of burning oil.
    • High engine temperature. Oil leaks can decrease your engine oil levels to unsafe levels during driving. If you observe a sudden increase in your engine temperature gauge while on the road, it may be attributed to a leak.

    If you’ve detected indications of an oil leak, schedule a service appointment with a reputable local auto mechanic. They can identify the leak, repair it, and replenish your car’s oil.

    3. Dirty or Clogged Oil Filter

    Every combustion engine has an oil filter designed to capture and eliminate impurities from the circulating oil as it moves through the engine and oil lines. Over time, these filters deteriorate and become congested with accumulated grime and debris, a process accelerated in dusty environments or when using old, degraded oil.

    As grime and impurities build up within your oil filter, its effectiveness diminishes. This can restrict the flow of oil and lead to a drop in oil pressure. If your oil levels are satisfactory and there are no signs of oil leakage, it’s advisable to schedule an oil filter replacement soon.

    A general guideline for modern vehicles is to replace the oil filter with every oil change. With more durable oil formulations, modern cars often exceed 6,000 miles between oil changes. Consequently, filters must maintain efficiency over longer periods.

    While you can continue driving with a dirty oil filter, you shouldn’t wait too long. Modern oil filters have a bypass valve that engages when the filter is excessively clogged, allowing oil to bypass filtration to prevent engine oil starvation. However, once activated, the bypass valve permits unfiltered oil into the engine, posing a risk of accelerated engine damage or wear.

    4. Bad Oil Sensors

    If you keep getting low oil pressure warnings even after changing the oil and replacing the filter, the issue might be faulty oil sensors.

    Your car’s computer relies on these sensors to monitor current oil pressure levels and decide when to display a low oil pressure warning on the dashboard. If the sensors malfunction or fail, they could send incorrect readings to the computer, mistakenly indicating a low oil pressure problem.

    It’s best to schedule a service appointment with a mechanic to fix this. They can inspect your car’s electronic system and determine whether the sensors need replacing.

    5. Worn Out Oil Pump

    Oil pumps can degrade over time due to general wear and tear. This can lead to a decrease in oil pressure as their internal components become less efficient.

    If your dashboard displays low oil pressure warnings even after an oil change or filter replacement, the oil pump may be at fault. A skilled mechanic can identify this possibility while examining your car’s oil sensors. If the sensors are not faulty and there is no other evident cause for the low oil pressure, a new oil pump might be necessary.

    Your mechanic can assess the condition of your oil pump and determine whether it can be repaired or requires replacement. They can handle the necessary services, ensuring that your vehicle’s oil system operates normally once again.

TIPS

9 Signs You Have A Failing Starter In Your Vehicle & What To Do About It

Car starters are powerful electric motors that crank your engine when you switch the key to the on position to start your car. This system features the motor with an attached solenoid. The solenoid’s job is to take the battery’s power and make sure it gets to the starter motor. Additionally, it pushes the starter gear forward, and this makes the gear mesh with the flywheel’s gear teeth in the engine.

Starters do wear out or fail over time. However, they usually have several warning signs that they’re on the way out, and mechanics may ask you about them if you take your vehicle into an auto repair shop. Your answers will help them diagnose the problem. We’re going to explain the biggest red flags that your starter is going bad below.

Nine Signs Of A Failing Starter

Usually, there are a few warning signs that your starter is going to fail before it actually does. The better understanding you have of these problems, the easier it’ll be to outline them to your mechanics when they ask you about the car’s history. The biggest signs are:

Your Vehicle Labors To Crank Or Cranks Slowly

Labored or slow cranking when you start your vehicle is usually the first sign that you have something going on with your starter. These symptoms could point toward a starter motor problem, or it could mean something else in your system. If you have a mechanic check it right away, you can negate the amount of damage.

Your Vehicle Refuses To Start

You push the start button or turn the key, and your engine refuses to crank. You could hear a clanking or clicking noise each time you turn the key, or you could hear nothing at all. If this happens, you most likely have a problem with the key part of your starter system. Your problem could be in the electrical system, solenoid, or the starter motor itself. You’ll want to fix this as soon as possible, but it may require a tow to your local auto repair shop.

Your Car Starts Intermittently

Having a starter problem that only happens intermittently can be a frustrating and anxiety-inducing event. This also makes it trickier to fix. Dirty or loose wiring could be behind your problem. An electrical component like a damaged relay could cause it to fail and work under different conditions. Even if this only rarely happens, it’s a good idea to take it in as soon as you can secure an appointment. It’ll get worse eventually, and you don’t want to end up stranded somewhere.

The Interior Lights Dim When You Attempt To Start Your Car

If your interior lights or the lights on your dashboard dim when you try to start your vehicle, a common cause is a short circuit somewhere in the internal wiring. When this short happens, your starter motor tries to draw extra power. In turn, this drains the other systems like your lights. Along with the dimming lights, you may notice a chugging sound. This can be a sign of bearing failure in the motor, and your vehicle needs attention right away.

You Hear A Grinding Noise When The Car Runs Or Starts

Hearing a grinding sound when you turn the key is a good indication of a mechanical problem over an electrical problem. The gears that connect to your starter motor are usually the culprits. These gears may not engage like they’re supposed to, or the gears wear down. The starter motor may have come loose from the mountings or have a problem internally. This problem can lead to more severe mechanical damage if you don’t have someone look at it right away.

The Engine Whines Or Whirs Without Cranking

When your engine won’t crank, and you hear a whining or whirring sound, this is commonly known as freewheeling. The starter motor isn’t engaging your vehicle’s flywheel, and the flywheel is spinning by itself. This happens when there is an issue with the mechanism that disengages and engages your starter.

The Starter Keeps Running After You Start The Engine

When your engine fires up, you remove your finger from the start button or release your key from the start position. The motor should switch off when you do this. If it keeps going, it’ll sound like it’s still trying to start your car. This problem usually indicates that you have a major problem somewhere in your system’s electrical circuitry, and it can lead to significant damage to other areas if you don’t fix it.

You Smell Something Burning Or See Smoke

Your starter system has mechanical and electrical components. Because of this makeup, any problems usually involve the electrical system combined with the overheated metal components. These components typically have layers of grease on them. When this happens, you may see smoke and smell the electrical system or oil burning off.

Starter System Gets Covered In Oil

You can find your starter system near the bottom of your engine. This portion of your vehicle is very hot, and it’s not uncommon for engine oil to leak down onto your starter system. If this keeps happening, it can drastically shorten the life of your starter.

What Happens If You Don’t Repair A Failing Starter?

There are several things that could happen if you don’t take the time to have someone repair or replace your failing starter. The biggest possibilities include but are not limited to:

  • Electrical system damage
  • Dim lighting
  • Damage to your transmission or engine
  • Battery drainage
  • Vehicle refuses to start

Along with damaging your other systems and leading to more expensive repairs, starter failure can leave you stranded. The last thing you want is to end up in the middle of nowhere with a car that won’t turn over and no way to get it to a garage. Therefore it’s essential you take steps early on to correct the problem and have professional help.

What To Do With Starter Issues

The first thing you want to do is get your car to a mechanic for them to diagnose it and rule out charging systems or battery causes. If your battery has a low charge, it can mimic a lot of these symptoms. If your mechanic notices an oil leak from your engine, they’ll have to correct this first before moving onto other repairs.

The root cause of your problems will most likely be your starter motor, starter relay, or solenoid. Each of these systems has relatively straightforward repairs, and your vehicle should run find once they replace or repair any defective components.

Your mechanics could recommend repairing a single component or part of your starter, or they could recommend a whole new system. The cost will depend on the parts and how difficult it is to get to your starter to switch it out. Your auto repair shop should be able to give you an estimate before they begin the repairs.

Whatever you do, don’t wait for it to fail. Get your vehicle in as soon as possible to minimize the damage and get your car running in peak performance once again.

TIPS

How to Keep Your Car Battery from Dying in Cold Weather

Winter weather is tough on car batteries. In fact, when the temperature is below 32 degrees, car batteries lose 35% of their strength, and at zero degrees they lose 60%. If you’re not prepared, you may find yourself stranded on the side of the road with a dead battery and an expensive tow in your future. Use these easy strategies for keeping your car battery from dying during the winter months.

How Do Car Batteries Work?

Car batteries are cells that store chemical energy and turn it into electrical energy when needed. They rely on a lead-acid chemical reaction that ignites a short burst of energy that turns on your lights, accessories and engine. Once the car is moving, the energy supplied to the engine comes from the alternator.

Car batteries are charged by the movement of your car driving; if they’re dead, they can also be jump started by a different car. However, once a battery stops holding a charge within its cells, it’s time to get a new one.

Most car batteries have a lifespan of three to five years, but this can be shortened by extreme weather conditions. If you live somewhere with extreme temperatures, you might have to replace your battery every year.

Why Winter Is Hard on Car Batteries

In the winter, car batteries are forced to work harder to get your engine going. Cold temperatures thicken your engine’s oil, which makes it move more slowly. This increases the amount of power needed by your battery to kickstart important processes. If the amount of charge in your battery is already reduced by the cold weather, you may find yourself with a vehicle that’s unable to start.

In addition, cold temperatures affect the chemical reaction that takes place inside the battery when you turn your car on. The cold makes your battery more sluggish, and it requires more time to successfully ignite.

Finally, the amount of technology you have in your car can take a big toll on the battery’s ability to do its job. Seat warmers, headlights, radio and electronic device chargers all demand power from the battery to start. This can be overwhelming and cause the battery to fail, especially if it’s older and already struggling to hold a charge.

Since your car’s battery is already working at a disadvantage during the winter months, you won’t be surprised to learn about the things that will almost guarantee your car’s battery dies when it’s a cold morning and you’re trying to hit the road. Here are the top reasons why batteries die and how to prevent it.

1. Make Sure Your Car Is Powered Down Properly

The biggest reason why your battery is dying is probably you. When it’s dark and cold outside, it’s easier to focus on rushing inside the house instead of making sure your car is properly powered down.

Make sure the headlights and cabin lights are off and the doors are completely closed; any light will drain the battery overnight. Unplug accessories, including cigarette lighter socket chargers, so that they don’t try and steal power when you turn your car on the next time.

2. Check for Corrosion or Loose Cables

Corrosion around your battery’s terminals can negatively affect the connection between the battery’s cell and its cables. If the terminals are corroded or the cables are loose, your battery won’t be able to successfully transfer its energy to the engine.

Regularly inspect the terminals for rust and the cables for cracking or breaking, and take your car into a trusted repair shop if you’re concerned about any issues.

3. Protect the Battery From Freezing Temperatures

Everything moves more slowly in the winter, including your battery. Have the battery tested before the weather gets too cold to make sure it’s able to hold a charge and replace it if it’s too old.

It’s also helpful to have your car’s oil changed, because old oil is thicker than new and will have more difficulty moving through the engine. A battery blanket is affordable and can keep your battery warm throughout the night so it’s ready to go in the morning.

Finally, try to park in a covered garage or downwind so that the battery isn’t exposed to the elements.

If you have the unfortunate luck of a dead car battery, it’s important to be prepared for prolonged exposure to cold weather while you’re waiting for help. Keep an emergency kit in your car that includes warm blankets, a phone battery bank, water and snacks. Flares may also be appropriate depending on your situation. It’s also a good idea to keep jumper cables in your car year-round.

Avoid Car Battery Surprises With Routine Maintenance

All of these tips will help you avoid a dead battery, but the most effective strategy for keeping your car battery running during the winter is with regular maintenance. When you bring your vehicle to a trusted auto repair shop, an expert technician will inspect your battery and let you know if there are any problems. They can test your battery, often for free, and let you know what its life span looks like.

Ask the technician about your battery’s cold cranking amps, or CCA, as well. This number refers to the battery’s ability to start a car during freezing weather. The higher the CCA number, the better the battery is at performing in the cold. Ensuring you’re using the right battery for your climate can help you avoid dead battery problems.
This winter, don’t get stuck out in the cold. These simple strategies will help you make sure that your car successfully starts every time.

 

TIPS

Driving habits that damage your car

re your bad driving habits placing your car under unnecessary strain? Learn what they are, the damage they are doing, and how to stop them.

We’ve put together a list of 10 things that could be harming your vehicle – and you might not even realise you’re doing them.

Effects of engine braking

Engine braking, or shifting gears to reduce your speed, can damage your drivetrain, especially the transmission.

Using your gears to brake when travelling, especially at higher speeds, can shorten the lifespan of your engine, so using your brake pedals lightly is the best practice for this.

 

Resting your hand on the gearstick

As a learner driver, your driving instructor probably told you to keep both hands on the wheel at all times, but many of us develop bad habits as soon as the ‘L’ plates are consigned to the bin.

One of these might include resting your hand on the gearstick.

But did you know this can be bad for the transmission?

The gearstick is connected to a selector fork, which is designed to make contact with a rotating collar for a short amount of time.

If you rest your hand on the gearstick, you risk applying pressure to the selector fork, causing premature wear.

Some owner’s manuals specifically advise against resting your hand on the gearstick, it’s worth checking yours to see if that’s the case.

 

Accelerating in a high gear

Many modern cars feature a gearshift indicator light, advising you when to change up or down a gear.

These tend to be set for economy, so more often than not you’ll be short-shifting to maximise efficiency.

However, you need to keep an eye on the downshift icon or be prepared to change down when necessary.

Accelerating at low rpm, or in too high a gear, means that the engine is working harder, placing unnecessary strain on the motor. If you accelerate hard when the engine is cold then you may also increase wear and tear, due to the fact the oil hasn’t reaches its optimal operating temperate.

Change down and allow the revs to rise before changing up.

This is particularly important when carrying heavy loads or when climbing hills.

 

Vehicle overloading

Modern cars are designed to carry heavy loads, but that doesn’t mean they can’t be overloaded.

Your owner’s manual will often tell you your car’s maximum load weight, which will give you an indication of how much luggage you can safely carry as a total – an exercise often put to the test when moving house or going on a long holiday.

The greater the weight, the more strain you’re placing on the brakes, suspension, and drivetrain.

It’s also worth noting that while leaving unnecessary items – like golf clubs or gym gear in the boot of you car – won’t add increased strain on your car’s parts, it will affect your car’s fuel economy and possibly your car’s emissions output.

So it’s always advisable to leave the golf clubs at home when not needed and try to travel as light as possible.

 

Shifting from drive to reverse before stopping

Shifting between reverse and drive (and vice versa) in a car fitted with an automatic gearbox is really bad for the transmission.

The automatic ‘box is designed to shift gears – leave the brakes to do the stopping.

Shifting gear before coming to a stop will cause wear and tear on the transmission band, rather than the brake discs and pads, which are serviceable items. Any work on the automatic transmission will be labour-intensive, and therefore costly.

The same can be said about crunching the gears in a manual car too, so it’s advisable to come to a complete stop before switching in to reverse gear (although most modern cars won’t allow you to switch without stopping anyway).

 

 

Car dashboard warning lights – don’t ignore them

Modern dashboards feature more lights than Blackpool at Christmas.

Some, such as ‘washer fluid’ or ‘bulb gone’, can be ignored until you get a chance to stop.

But others need to be investigated at the earliest opportunity.

It’s worth checking your owner’s manual to find out what the warning lights on your dashboard mean and familiarising yourself with the most serious ones so you know which ones to pull over and address immediately when driving.

If the following warnings appear on the dashboard, you’re advised to stop and seek help from your breakdown provider or a reputable local garage:

  • Engine/ECU
  • Braking system
  • Power steering failure
  • Airbag
  • Oil pressure
  • Cooling system

Revving the engine when cold

Some folk may tell you that making regular short journeys is terrible for your car because the engine oil never fully warms up.

In reality, all vehicles start from cold, so the critical thing is to avoid revving the engine until it is warmed up.

This gives the oil the time to warm and circulate around the engine, avoiding potential damage and undue wear and tear.

 

Riding the clutch

Riding the clutch is a bad idea, especially as it’s considered to be a ‘wear and tear’ item, and therefore not covered by a warranty.

Riding the clutch happens typically when a driver fails to take their foot off the pedal after changing gear, or when attempting to do a hill-start.

Poor clutch control will cause excessive wear, shortening the life of the plate. You may need a clutch repair to get back on the road.

Make sure your foot has left the clutch pedal – using the off-clutch footrest, if fitted.

When performing hill-starts, leave the car in neutral with the handbrake on until you’re ready to move.

 

Late braking

There may be a time when you need to perform an emergency stop, in which case sudden braking is essential.

But consistent late braking will place more strain on the braking system, wearing out your pads and discs faster, as well as costing you more fuel in the process.

In general, a slow and considered approach to driving, anticipating the road ahead, is better for your car and the environment.

Hopefully none of these habits have caused you a breakdown in the past, but do make sure you have breakdown cover, van breakdown cover or business breakdown cover in case it does happen!

TIPS

Ways to Prevent Rust From Road Salt

Road salt helps keep us safe as we travel local roads and highways in poor weather conditions—but it sure can do a number on our vehicles. Salt is used because it lowers the water’s freezing point, melting any ice that has formed and preventing further ice buildup. Unfortunately, salt can cause corrosion and rust on your vehicle, particularly on your car’s exposed undercarriage.

It can be helpful to file these prevention tips away for next season to avoid any future salt damage.

How to Prevent Rust on Your Car From Salt

• Wash your car after a snow storm.
This may seem obvious, but it does help to wash the salt off of your car as soon as possible. Sometimes we think it isn’t worth it to wash our car in the middle of winter; after all, it will just get dirty again, right? Post-snow storm washes aren’t really for cosmetic reasons; they are preventative care for your car. Don’t forget to spray the undercarriage!

• Stick to a regular car wash schedule.
Even when there isn’t a major snow storm event, road salt is still used to prevent ice buildup on roads and in parking lots. Try to wash your car every 2 weeks, at the least—and take advantage of days when the temperature is above 40 degrees as prime opportunities for a wash.

• Try not to follow the plow.
That moment when you find yourself driving directly behind a plow is the worst. You’re probably cringing as you hear the salt pinging against your car. If you have the option, change course to avoid being directly behind the plow.

• On that note, steer clear of puddles.
Salt tends to collect in pools of standing water, so when you can, avoid giving your car a “salt bath” by driving through a puddle.

• Wax your car before winter.
Wax is a great way to give your car a strong protective coating against road salt.

• Get a seasonal car inspection.
A certified auto technician can identify areas of wear and tear before the winter season, helping you take steps to prevent further rust buildup and corrosion once the snow and ice arrive.

TIPS

Signs of a Bad Car Thermostat

A broken car thermostat can significantly impact how a car runs. Learn about a thermostat’s function, signs that it may be faulty, and how to troubleshoot problems.

What does a thermostat do in a car?

A thermostat regulates the temperature of coolant in a car, helping the engine operate at an ideal temperature. The thermostat is a valve located between the engine and the radiator, and it closes or opens based on the engine’s temperature. It stays closed when the engine is cold and opens as it heats up, allowing coolant to flow to the radiator to cool the engine.

Signs of a bad thermostat in a car

An overheated engine: This is the most common symptom of a bad thermostat. If corrosion or age has caused the thermostat to remain closed, the coolant won’t flow to the radiator, and the engine can overheat. This will be indicated in a high temperature reading on your dashboard temperature gauge.

Unusual temperature readings: Keep an eye on the dashboard temperature gauge for fast jumps from normal to hot or unexpected fluctuations. These could be caused by a faulty thermostat sending mixed signals to the gauge.

Low coolant levels: An improperly working thermostat can lead to low coolant levels in the radiator. If you suspect thermostat issues, you could consider visually checking your coolant levels. When the vehicle is off and completely cool, open the hood and find the radiator and coolant reservoir. The reservoir is probably made of clear plastic so you can see the fill line and the coolant level.

Issues with the vehicle’s heat: During cold weather, it could take a long time for the heat to be noticeable, or the temperature in the car may just never feel warm enough.

Lower fuel efficiency: An engine that isn’t running optimally can lead to poorer fuel economy.

How to test a car thermostat

Before replacing a thermostat, it’s essential to run a test to confirm that it’s faulty. However, always remember to work on a cool engine, use gloves and eye protection, ensure that there’s plenty of ventilation, and consult professionals if you need assistance. Safety should always be a priority when dealing with car maintenance.

Feel the radiator hose: When the engine is warming up, a cold hose may indicate that the thermostat isn’t working properly.

Use an OBD-II scanner: This device allows you to check engine temperature variances. With the ignition off, plug the scanner into the OBD-II port, which is usually under the dashboard on the driver’s side of the car. From there, follow instructions on the scanner for additional information that might be needed, then read any diagnostic codes and view live data and sensor readings.

Perform the boiling water test: Placing the thermostat in water and bringing it to a boil lets you see how it performs. Follow these steps to test your thermostat:

  1. Remove the thermostat from the car and drain the coolant from the radiator.
  2. Examine the thermostat to see if it’s already in an open or closed position; if it’s fully open, it’s probably faulty.
  3. Get a pot large enough to hold the thermostat and bring water to a boil; submerge the thermostat in the water.
  4. Once the water’s boiling, measure the water’s temperature with a thermometer.
  5. The thermostat should start to open at the specified temperature, which is usually printed on the thermostat; if it doesn’t open or opens too early, it’s faulty.

Can you drive a car with a bad thermostat?

It’s possible to drive with a bad thermostat, but it’s not recommended. Doing so can cause your car to overheat, leading to severe engine damage that will be costly to repair.

How to change a faulty thermostat in a car

Always use safety precautions and consult a professional for help when needed. Follow the steps below to replace a faulty thermostat yourself:

  1. Put a large bucket or container under your work area to catch radiator fluid; save it to pour back into the radiator when finished.
  2. Follow the radiator hose to the thermostat, remove the clamp, and remove the hose (fluid will drain from the radiator).
  3. Remove the bolts holding the housing and old thermostat.
  4. Remove the gasket around the old thermostat’s housing.
  5. Install the new thermostat with the spring side down and replace the bolts.
  6. Replace the hose and hose clamp and pour the fluid into the coolant reservoir.
TIPS

Coolant Leak Symptoms and Causes

A coolant leak can be a really dangerous problem for your vehicle. The cooling system is essential for regulating engine temperature and preventing overheating, making it crucial to identify and address coolant leaks promptly.

In this blog, we’ll explore the symptoms and causes of coolant leaks, the seriousness of the issue, and the potential cost of repairs.

Common Symptoms of Coolant Leaks

  • Low Coolant Level: The most apparent sign of a coolant leak is a consistently low coolant level in the reservoir or radiator.
  • Overheating: If the engine temperature gauge rises significantly or you notice steam or smoke from under the hood, it may indicate a coolant leak.
  • Sweet Smell: A sweet, maple syrup-like smell inside the car or around the engine compartment can be a sign of leaking coolant.
  • Visible Coolant Puddles: Finding puddles of bright green, yellow, or pinkish fluid under your vehicle after parking can indicate a coolant leak.
  • White Exhaust Smoke: Coolant mixing with engine oil can produce white exhaust smoke, indicating a possible head gasket leak.
  • Coolant Warning Light: Some modern vehicles have a coolant warning light that may illuminate when there’s a significant drop in coolant level.

    How Serious is a Coolant Leak?

    • A coolant leak is a significant concern as it can lead to engine overheating, which may cause severe damage and potentially lead to engine failure if left unaddressed.
    • Operating a vehicle with a coolant leak can result in reduced cooling efficiency, increasing the risk of engine overheating, especially in hot weather or during long drives.
    • Ignoring a coolant leak can cause damage to engine components, such as the water pump, radiator, and head gasket, leading to expensive repairs.

    Is it Expensive to Fix a Coolant Leak?

    The cost of repairing a coolant leak can vary depending on several factors, including the cause of the leak, the extent of the damage, and the make and model of your vehicle. However, compared to the potential damage and costs associated with engine overheating, addressing a coolant leak promptly is relatively affordable.

    • Inexpensive fixes may include replacing a damaged hose, tightening the reservoir cap, or fixing a small radiator leak.
    • Repairs involving the water pump, heater core, or head gasket can be more expensive due to labor-intensive processes.
    • If the engine block or cylinder head is cracked, it may require significant repair or engine replacement, making it one of the costliest scenarios.

  • Causes of Coolant Leaks

    • Damaged Hoses: Cracked, worn, or damaged coolant hoses are a common source of leaks. Hoses can deteriorate over time due to heat and pressure.
    • Radiator Leaks: Corrosion or physical damage to the radiator can cause leaks. Regular maintenance can help prevent radiator issues.
    • Water Pump Issues: A faulty water pump with a damaged seal can lead to coolant leaks.
    • Loose or Damaged Coolant Reservoir Cap: The cap seals the coolant system, and if it’s loose or damaged, it can cause coolant to escape.
    • Head Gasket Failure: A blown head gasket can allow coolant to mix with engine oil or leak externally.
    • Heater Core Leaks: If the heater core, which heats the cabin, develops a leak, it can lead to coolant loss.
    • Freeze Plug Failure: Freeze plugs, also known as expansion plugs, can rust or corrode, resulting in coolant leaks.
    • Cracked Engine Block or Cylinder Head: In rare cases, cracks in the engine block or cylinder head can cause coolant leaks.
TIPS

5 Tips on How to De-Ice Your Windshield & Keep Ice Off of It

Winters are unkind to drivers. Slick roads, waiting several minutes for your car to warm up in the frigid weather, and trying to keep snow, sleet, and freezing rain off your windshield.

Today’s blog showcases how to de-ice your windshield and keep the ice off as you drive to your destination.

Ice Scraper

Your primary tool is an ice scraper for removing ice on your windshield. Purchase a plastic and not a metal one because metal can scratch the glass and damage the wiper blades.

Start with the edges of your windshield rather than the middle. If you start in the middle, you may be tempted to pound your way to the windshield to get an edge underneath the ice. Rather than using force, use heat to loosen the ice.

Car Defroster

The key to heating your windshield comes from your vehicle’s defroster. Before you lift your scraper, start your car’s engine, set the air conditioning to defrost, and set it to recirculate. Set the controls to full heat. As your engine warms up, the heat will get more intense.

Eventually, the ice against your windshield will soften. Then you can get your scraper’s edge against your windshield and remove the ice. Go slowly and smoothly to prevent ice chips from spraying around your eyes and face.

Patience

The key to this process is patience. It may take 10 to 15 minutes for your vehicle’s heater to get warm enough to start melting the ice. Then, it could take another few minutes for the ice against the windshield to become soft enough to scrape the ice off.

However, this method will reduce the physical effort required to de-ice your windshield. It might even take more time to exert yourself while trying to get through the ice on your windshield than waiting for your heater to get warm. The trick is to leave enough time (maybe an extra 20 to 30 minutes) to de-ice your windshield before starting out on your trip.

Once you clear your windshield of ice, you need to keep it clear.

De-Icing Fluid or Spray

You can purchase de-icing fluid that goes in your windshield wiper fluid reservoir under the hood. However, that doesn’t work if your windshield has ice on it. Set some aside, fill up a spray bottle, and spray it on your windshield to loosen some of the ice. This method works because the de-icing fluid has a lower freezing point than water. Once the ice is loose, scrape it away.

Rock Salt Spray

Although not as effective as commercially available de-icing fluid, you can fill a spray bottle with water and add a few scoops of rock salt. The rock salt will lower the freezing point of the ice, allowing you to get under the ice more easily than without it.

Keeping Ice Off Your Windshield Once It’s Gone

There are two keys to keeping ice off of your windshield while driving. First, keep your defroster on hot, even at a low setting. This will keep your windshield from fogging up. Second, use your windshield wipers to keep snow, sleet, or freezing rain from cluttering your view and covering the glass.

If your car is parked outside, use a windshield cover to protect your wiper blades. They range in price from $10 to $30. If not, cover your windshield with a large towel or tarp. Before putting it on your windshield, soak the cover in diluted saltwater to prevent the cloth from freezing to the windshield if the precipitation starts as a liquid and then freezes.

How NOT to De-Ice Your Windshield

There are some ways not to de-ice your windshield, even though you may think they are convenient. Do not use hot or boiling water to de-ice your windshield. Not only will the water refreeze and make the icy windshield worse, but the sudden hot temperatures could crack your windshield due to thermal shock.

One DIY remedy includes a mix of vinegar and water. But this doesn’t work well since vinegar can corrode chrome and your vehicle’s paint job. Worse, vinegar may cause micro-pitting on the windshield glass, meaning very small holes could form. Over time, as more debris lands on the windshield at high speed, cracks could form more readily.

TIPS

What Is an Ignition Coil?

An ignition coil, as its name suggests, plays a vital role in igniting the engine. This small yet potent device delivers up to 60,000 volts of power to the spark plugs to ensure your vehicle’s smooth operation. You can find the ignition coil nestled within the engine compartment. The heart of your vehicle’s performance lies in its ignition system, with the ignition coil playing a starring role. Keeping it maintained will help to have a smooth, efficient drive.

What does an ignition coil do?

The ignition coil functions as a power transformer. It takes the 12-volt charge from your car battery and transforms it into something much more potent. This converted voltage, which can reach up to 60,000 volts, is what your spark plugs need to ignite the fuel-and-air mixture within the engine’s combustion chambers. Without a functioning ignition coil, the spark plug would not receive the necessary voltage to create the spark needed to ignite the fuel-air mix.

Where is it? The location of your ignition coil depends on the make and model of your vehicle. One common location is attached to the spark plugs on top of the engine block.

Types of ignition coils

Understanding the different types of ignition coils can be incredibly helpful, especially when it comes to maintaining your vehicle or diagnosing potential problems.

Canister-style coils

Conventional ignition coils, often referred to as canister-style coils, were very common in older vehicles. The design of these coils is quite simple: A metal canister houses the primary and secondary windings. They typically sit outside the engine and are wired to a distributor, which then takes on the responsibility of distributing the high voltage from the coil to the spark plugs. Despite their simplicity, conventional ignition coils are known for their durability and reliability.

Distributorless ignition system (DIS) coils

As technology advanced, so did ignition coils. Enter the distributorless ignition system (DIS) coils. These coils represent a significant step forward in ignition technology. Instead of relying on a distributor, DIS coils are usually mounted directly on or near the spark plugs. Each coil is tasked with supplying high voltage to a specific spark plug. This design allows for more precise timing of spark production for each cylinder, thanks to the use of sensors. The result is improved ignition performance and efficiency over conventional coils.

Coil-on-plug (COP) ignition coils

Taking the concept of DIS coils a notch higher, we have the coil-on-plug (COP) ignition coils. In a COP system, each cylinder gets its own personal ignition coil, which is mounted directly on the spark plug. This setup eliminates the need for spark plug wires, allowing for even more precise and efficient ignition. COP ignition coils provide enhanced spark energy and better control over combustion. The outcomes are improved engine performance and reduced emissions.

Signs of a bad ignition coil

How can you tell if your ignition coil is failing and needs attention? Here are some common signs:

  1. The check engine light is on: If it illuminates, it could be indicating a problem with your ignition coil.
  2. The engine misfires: Should your ignition coil begin to fail, it might fail to supply adequate voltage to the spark plugs, resulting in misfires.
  3. Starts are difficult: When spark plugs aren’t receiving enough power to ignite the fuel-air mixture in the engine, your vehicle will have a hard time starting.
  4. Fuel economy decreases: A failing ignition coil can disrupt the balance of fuel consumption and power generation, leading to less-than-optimal fuel economy.
  5. Power begins to lag: A bad ignition coil might not supply enough power to the spark plugs, resulting in reduced engine performance.
  6. The engine backfires: This might indicate a faulty ignition coil failing to ignite the fuel in the combustion chamber adequately.

How long do ignition coils last?

On average, a well-maintained ignition coil should last around 100,000 miles. However, this can vary depending on factors like your driving habits, vehicle make and model, and even the climate you live in. It’s important to remember that preventive maintenance is always better than reactive repairs. Regular check-ups can assist in identifying potential issues before they develop into more severe (and expensive) complications. So, if your check engine light has been flickering or your engine is misfiring, it’s best to schedule a visit to your mechanic sooner rather than later.

Understanding your vehicle, including the vital role of the ignition coil, ensures smooth and efficient driving. However, even with impeccable maintenance, unforeseen issues can arise. Having the right auto insurance is key to protecting your car from unexpected repair costs and other road-related incidents. It not only gives you peace of mind but also helps to ensure that you get back on the road without worrying about financial implications.

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