10 TIPS FOR CHANGING SPARK PLUGS

Old and failing spark plugs can cause a host of problems in your engine, and it should be expected that you’ll have to change them at least a few times during the life of a vehicle. Luckily, it’s a pretty straightforward DIY that requires close attention, but not many tools. With the right know-how and a few tricks up your sleeve, changing spark plugs is a simple job with big payoffs in fuel economy and performance.

1. SOLID PREP

Get all your tools together so you don’t have to search for them in the middle of the job. This includes a few specialty tools such as a spark plug puller that will make your life easier. Also, though it is tempting to use a regular socket to remove plugs, a specialized spark plug socket (of the correct size) is the way to go because it has an interior rubber component to protect the delicate ceramic housing.

2. KEEP YOUR COOL

Always let your engine cool down completely before starting work or be prepared to get burned

3. KEEP IT CLEAN

Before removing any plugs, take a vacuum and remove any dirt or debris in the area around the spark plug. The goal is to keep dirt from falling into the combustion chambers when the plugs are out. You might also take a bit of carb cleaner just for a really nice work area that isn’t going to drop grime in if you bump it while working.

4. GO TO YOUR HOME

If you have to remove anything such as vacuum hoses, coils, or other components that might easily get confused, make sure you label before disconnecting so they can be easily reinstalled.

5. ONE BY ONE

Remove and replace plugs one at a time. This will save you the frustration of having to figure out where each wire goes later.

6. GADGET INSPECTOR

Inspect each plug as it is removed. Look for excessive carbon buildup, oil, unburned fuel, or damage to diagnose unseen engine problems. Any of these indicate a bigger problem you’ll want to figure out ASAP.

7. MIND THE GAP

Most plugs these days come pre-gapped, but you’ll want to check to make sure the gap is correct with a gauge (carefully, especially if it’s iridium) and that there is no preexisting damage.

8. KEEPING THE SPARK ALIVE

There is much debate as to the use of anti-seize coating on spark plug threads. The decision mostly comes down to the manufacturer and type of spark plug, so consult with your local store before dabbing it on. Also, throw a dab of dielectric grease at the end of the plug wires.

9. SPARKING JOY

Start each plug into the engine by hand to avoid cross-threading at all costs. Once you get it in securely by hand, use a torque wrench to torque precisely as indicated by your owner’s manual.

10. WELL ADJUSTED

Make sure when the wires are installed on the new plugs that they seat fully. You’ll feel a small pop to know that they’re in.

 

TIPS

5 Reasons Your Vehicle’s Engine May Stall While You’re Driving

It’s bad enough when your vehicle won’t start, but it’s even worse when it suddenly stops while you’re driving. This can be a frightening experience, but staying calm can help you act with a clear head. Using the momentum you have from driving, steer to the side of the road. Once you’re there, you can try to turn on your car, or simply get out and call for a tow truck.

Stalling like this isn’t very common. But when it does happen, there are a number of possible causes. We’ll go into detail on some of the more common ones below.

5. Trouble with Transmission

If you’re driving a car with a manual transmission, this may be an easy problem to fix. After all, braking too hard while the clutch is engaged can cause the car to stall, as can disengaging the clutch too quickly. If you’ve done this, simply restart your vehicle.

But if you’re driving a car with an automatic transmission, stalling can be a sign of a more serious problem. The torque converter is the automatic equivalent of a clutch; it’s a piece of machinery that connects and disconnects the transmission and the engine. If it fails to engage and disengage as it should, it may be what causes the engine to stop.

4. Faulty Mass Airflow Sensor

Your engine needs a steady supply of air in order to keep functioning. In modern fuel injected engines, a number of components are required to inject the precise mixture of fuel and air into the combustion chambers. The ECU, or engine control unit, gets information from a number of sensors and adjusts the injection based on this information. The mass airflow sensor, or MAF, is the sensor that’s responsible for telling the ECU the mass of the air that’s coming into the engine. If the MAF isn’t functioning as it should, the ECU may get incorrect information. If this happens, the ECU may direct less fuel to be injected, which can cause the engine to stall.

3. Fuel System Problems

If you’ve ever run out of gas, you know from experience just how quickly a lack of fuel can cause your car to stall. An empty gas tank is certainly one way that your engine might fail to get fuel, especially if you have a gas leak that’s making you lose fuel faster than expected. However, it’s not the only potential cause. The fuel pump helps move the gas from the fuel tank to the engine itself, so a fuel pump that fails while you’re driving can cause your car to stop. In addition, fuel injectors that are malfunctioning may keep enough fuel from reaching your engine.

2. Failed Alternator

The alternator plays several key roles in your vehicle’s functioning. It recharges the battery so that you can start your car when you need to, but it also runs the electric components of your vehicle. Among other things, it keeps the spark plugs sparking, which is a vital part of combustion. If the alternator begins to fail, the spark plugs may only sometimes function, causing rough and weak performance. An alternator that fails completely can cause the engine to stall, since the spark plugs won’t be creating any spark at all.

1. A Broken Timing Belt

While most Toyota models these days have a timing chain, many older vehicles were equipped with timing belts. These belts synchronize the strokes of the valves and pistons by making sure the camshaft or camshafts are synchronized to the rotation of the crankshaft. If the timing belt breaks in a freewheeling engine (that is, an engine where the pistons never occupy the same space as the valves), your engine will simply stop running. If your vehicle has an interference engine, your vehicle will also stop running . . . but the engine itself will likely be destroyed.

TIPS

HOW TO STAY SAFE WHEN YOUR CAR FISHTAILS

WHAT CAUSES FISHTAILING IN A CAR

When your rear tires lose traction—or grip—on the road, your car begins to slide on the road’s surface rather than move in the direction you’re steering. This is “fishtailing,” which is also called acceleration skidding or over-steering.

Fishtailing happens most often on slick, icy, or snowy roads, but it’s also likely in heavy rain when the road begins to flood. It doesn’t just happen when making a turn, either. Your car can easily start skidding if you’re driving too fast in less-than-ideal road conditions.

IF YOUR CAR STARTS TO FISHTAIL

When the rear of your car starts skidding on the road, remember these simple strategies to stop fishtailing:

DON’T PANIC.

As scary as it is when your car starts to slide in a direction you don’t want to go, it’s important to remain calm. Give yourself the best chance you can to handle the situation effectively and keep yourself, your passengers, and other drivers safe.

TURN THE STEERING WHEEL IN THE DIRECTION OF THE SKID.

As soon as you feel your rear wheels skidding, begin turning the steering wheel in the same direction that the rear wheels are moving. So, if the back end of the car is sliding toward the driver’s side, turn the steering wheel to the left. The rear is skidding toward the passenger side? Steer right. This will help your wheels turn back to the direction you want to travel and help you regain control of your vehicle.

TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF THE GAS AND GENTLY BRAKE.

When you lose control of your car, your first gut reaction may be to slam on the brakes to stop your vehicle from moving. Resist this urge. Instead, take your foot off of the accelerator and pump your brakes if they’re standard. If you have anti-lock brakes (ABS) apply steady pressure instead of pumping

TIPS

3 Common Symptoms Of A Bad Engine Oil Pressure Sensor

The purpose of engine oil pressure oil is to measure the amount of oil pressure in your car to optimize fuel injection, ignition timing, and other critical engine parameters. This sensor plays a crucial role in your engine, so what are the common signs of a bad engine oil pressure sensor? Let’s find out the potential causes behind its failure and the implications it can have on the vehicle’s operation.

What Does The Oil Pressure Sensor Do In Your Car?

The oil pressure sensor also known as the oil pressure switch has the primary function of controlling the oil pressure within the car engine and sends data to the ECU or instrument cluster. From that, the driver can easily know the amount of fluid being pumped into the system. If the oil is pumped adequately, it will provide a good lubrication effect, reduce friction, and dissipate heat. Depending on the pressure level, the ECU will send a signal to turn on the warning light on the dashboard so that the driver knows and takes timely measures.

It’s clear that the oil pressure sensor has two obvious functions:

  • Make sure the engine gets adequate oil pressure for proper lubrication.
  • This sensor serves as a safety feature by warning the driver If the oil pressure drops below a certain threshold.

So, where is the oil pressure sensor located in your car? The oil pressure sensor is typically located near the engine’s oil pump or on the engine block, and it is connected to the engine control unit (ECU) or the instrument cluster.

3 Symptoms Of A Bad Oil Pressure Sensor You Should Know 

As an important part of the car sensor system, directly affecting the starting and acceleration process of your car, the oil pressure sensor is required to operate correctly. If any problem occurs with this sensor, the ECU cannot do a good job of controlling the engine. A malfunctioning oil pressure can manifest in various signs. Here are the oil pressure sensor symptoms:

  • Oil pressure sensor light

One of the most obvious indications is the illumination of the oil pressure warning light on the car dashboard. This light typically looks like an oil can or an oil drop. If the warning light comes on but the engine oil is still at the standard level, the cause may be a faulty sensor. When this sensor malfunctions, the results obtained will be inaccurate. In some cases, it also indicates that the oil pressure has dropped below the recommended level.

  • Errors in the oil pressure gauge 

Currently, most new cars are equipped with an oil pressure gauge on the dashboard to give oil pressure information to drivers. If you detect that the gauge shows a very low level of oil pressure or fluctuating readings, it means the oil pressure system is faulty. This affects the system’s operation, reducing the accuracy of displayed results. This is one of the common signs of a problem with the oil pressure sensor. Please note that a properly functioning oil pressure gauge should display a stable pressure within the normal range. Any deviations from the normal reading may indicate a problem.

  • “Check engine” light 

The engine control unit (ECU) monitors various sensors, including the oil pressure sensor, to ensure the engine is operating within optimal parameters. If the ECU detects a problem with the oil pressure sensor, it may trigger the “Check Engine” light to alert the driver of a potential issue.

When the oil pressure sensor malfunctions, it may send incorrect signals or no signal at all to the ECU. As a result, the ECU may interpret this as a problem with the engine’s oil pressure and trigger the “Check Engine” light.

However, the “Check Engine” light can show off for various causes, so it’s better to have the diagnosis for trusted mechanics to retrieve the specific error codes stored in the ECU.

If diagnosis confirms that your oil pressure sensor is bad, there are several methods you can apply:

  • Monitor the engine oil pressure: Make sure that oil pressure readings are within the normal range.
  • Check the oil level: Inspect that the engine oil level is within the recommended range.
  • Replace the oil pressure sensor If necessary

  • How To Replace A Bad Engine Oil Pressure Sensor?

    Replacing a new oil pressure sensor is the recommended method If this sensor has an issue. Here is a general step-by-step guide to changing the oil pressure sensor you can refer to If you have a bad one:

    Step 1: Prepare the necessary tools

    Before starting the process, the car owner needs to gather the tools required for the job such as a set of screwdrivers, a soft towel, specialized glue, and a set of wrenches.

    Step 2: Locate the sensor 

    Depending on the vehicle’s design, type, and engine structure, the location of the pressure sensor on each car may be different. Typically, this sensor is installed near the bottom of the cylinder head inside the engine block or oil pump. You can read the owner’s manual to know the exact position of the sensor.

    Step 3: Disconnect the car battery 

    To prevent any electrical accidents, disconnect the negative terminal of the vehicle’s battery. As the next step, you should carefully disconnect the electrical connector from the oil pressure sensor. You may need to press or squeeze a lock tab to release it.

    Step 4: Remove the oil pressure sensor 

    Next, the driver needs to use a wrench or socket to remove the oil pressure sensor to inspect and determine the cause of damage. The oil pressure switch is installed where there is pressurized oil, so repairers should be extremely cautious when doing so. Take note of any sealing washers or O-rings that may need to be replaced.

    Step 5: Replace it with a new sensor

    After completing all these steps, you proceed to install the new sensor in the correct position and tighten it. Then, install the electrical connector after tightening it with a wrench. Attach the electrical connector to the new oil pressure sensor, ensuring a secure connection. Finally, the car owner just needs to start the engine and observe the oil pressure indicator to make sure the sensor is operating stably again. Additionally, check for any oil leaks around the sensor area.

TIPS

4 Ways to Show Your Car Some Love This Valentine’s Day

Valentine’s day is here, and that means it is time to pamper your true love with attention and affection. That means you may want to book a time at the car day spa for a fluid replacement and wash and wax. What are your date plans for your 4-wheeled love this Valentine’s day? No plans? Here are some ideas. Many people schedule annual, biannual or quarterly services for the new year, but this can cause scheduling problems because everyone else is doing it as well. Waiting until February, you are past all the new year’s schedules and can have an easier time getting service done, so schedule annual Valentine’s service and cleaning so your car is ready for the date.

Car detail

This is a simple way you can show your baby you love her. You can even do it at home. It is always a good idea to have a once in a while complete cleaning for your car. If you have a date for Valentines, you will want your car to be perfect for a special night, and if you don’t, you have nothing better to do than spend the day on a deep detail cleaning at the car wash! Single or not, it is a good idea.

Fluid replacement

Oil should be changed every 5,000-10,000 miles depending on the type of oil, so at the beginning of the year and then again before a summer road trip or 4th of July are good times for most regular drivers. Transmission, power steering, and differential oil every 3 years, so if you are approaching 3 years, now is a good time. Power steering fluid is recommended every two years, but some add it to an annual service because it is easy enough to all do at once. So, if your car is coming up on three or six years old, this is a definite for your to-do list.

Tire service

Tires need an occasional rotation as well. Most recommend every 5,000 to 10,000 miles, which puts it in at the same time as an oil change. So, while you are getting those fluids done, add a tire rotation to it.

Annual service

Any high-performance BMW, Mercedes or other vehicle needs an annual inspection. Recommended is every 10,000 miles. This is a good time to do many of our ideas mentioned here as well as have a full overall inspection for incoming problems. Make sure your electrical and other systems are in good shape and not wearing down. It is better to have an annual inspection and find something before it breaks than wind up on the side of the freeway a month later

 

TIPS

How to protect your Car from Snow and Ice Damage

While winter may be full of beautiful landscapes and warm nights around the fire, it also brings with it snow and ice that can harm your beloved vehicles. In the mind of a vehicle mechanic, winter is equal parts hot chocolate, snowmen, and corrosion damage.

 

The rock salt, ice, and melting snow common on our roads in the winter all take a unique toll on your car. However, the majority of winter damage to your vehicle can be prevented with only a few preventive maintenance steps and proper storage planning. In this post, we are going to explore how you can best avoid the damage to your car caused by snow and ice.

The following are vital tips and pieces of advice for getting you and your vehicle winter-ready:

 

1. When Possible Park Indoors or with Overhead Cover

 

While fresh snow isn’t going to build up and crush your car, it will eventually melt and can lead to moisture damage. Preventing it from finding a home on your vehicle is easier with an overhead cover.

 

While it may seem obvious that you don’t want snow falling onto your car, you have to be aware of the underside as well. Do not park in a spot with snow build-up already present as it can push up against the bottom of the vehicle and create places of rust. Also, snow on the ground is often dirty and can deposit multiple chemicals from the road to the surface of your car.

 

2. Use a Windshield Cover

 

Ice and snow on your windshield can be incredibly dangerous and can take a long time to melt off or remove. One of the best ways of dealing with this is to invest in a windshield ice cover. Or you can get a large piece of cardboard. Anything that you can place over the windshield. Remove the cardboard in the morning, along with all the accumulated ice and snow.

 

3. Let the Car Warm Up and Don’t Use Buckets of Water

 

A common cause of ice damage to a vehicle is preventable. Drivers will often douse their vehicles in warm water to remove the ice and snow, which can lead to a few issues. Often, glass can crack under abrupt and extreme changes in temperature. Also, you are left with a large amount of water, which can quickly refreeze. Ice will now coat your vehicle’s surface and you have something to slip on.

 

However, be careful not to leave your car a tempting target for thieves by leaving it running outside alone too long. This is apparently a growing issue and has led to some city ordinances.

 

Your headlights should be able to get warm enough to melt ice off of them and shouldn’t need special treatment.

 

4. Use an Ice Scraper Only on the Windows

 

Only use ice scrapers on the windows. Ice scrapers are made for hard surfaces and can easily scratch and damage the finish of your car. Similarity don’t try and use a shovel or any other hard metal device to remove ice and snow from your car. While ice and snow can do damage, so to can a shovel.

5. Invest in Warm Waterproof Gloves and Cooking Spray

 

De-icing liquid and Waterproof gloves, or thick socks in an emergency, can be used to help you remove the majority of ice and snow covering your vehicle. Some cooking sprays can be used as a replacement for de-icing liquids and can help you remove the ice causing the doors to stick.

 

Check your plastic fittings to ensure your car is still waterproof, and occasionally spray them with your cooking spray. Spraying these rubber and plastic surfaces can prevent a good deal of the damage ice can cause to them. Any relatively gentle silicone spray or white lithium grease added to your weather stripping can prevent ice damage.

 

6. Get a Waxing

 

Applying a wax coating before the weather gets too cold will place a seal between your finish and the ice, snow, and salt that threatens it. Don’t wait too long the cold weather will prevent you from correctly applying the wax.

 

Alternatively, you can invest in a DIY paint sealant offered by car dealers. These sealants are great at stopping the harsh chemicals in the salt, and those carried to your car by snow from the road, from tearing a hole in your paint.

 

7. Avoid Getting Salty

 

As previously stated, The ice-melting salt will corrode and eat away at both the paint and the underside of your vehicle. This salt is necessary to keep our roads safe from ice and snow but our top causes of winter-time damage.

 

Don’t simply rub the salt off your vehicle. Wash it off to avoid scratches and marks. Use the touchless setting if you go to the carwash. The salt also quickly corrodes metal, so wash underneath the vehicle often as well.

TIPS

6 SIGNS THAT TELL YOU YOUR RADIATOR IS CLOGGED

Are you aware of what to do if your radiator begins to make odd noises? Or, worse yet, if it stops working altogether? If not, don’t worry! We’re here to help. In this Article, will discuss six signs that tell you your radiator is clogged. Knowing these signs allows you to take action before the problem gets too severe.

SIGN 01: OVERHEATING ENGINE

An overheated engine is one of the most prominent signs that your radiator is clogged. If you notice that your car’s temperature gauge is reading higher than usual, it’s time to take your vehicle in for service. Signs of an overheating engine include:

  • The temperature gauge needle moving into the red zone
  • steam coming from under the hood
  • smoke coming from under the hood

If you notice these signs, pull over immediately and turn off your engine. Do not open the hood until the engine has cooled down completely.

SIGN 02: COOLANT LEAK

It is a sure indicator that your radiator has a blockage when fluids, particularly radiator coolant, begin leaking. When the fluid in your radiator cannot flow properly, it flows in another location, which causes leaks. As a result, always consider a potential radiator blockage when there is a coolant leak.

SIGN 03: LOW COOLANT LEVEL

It’s a good idea to inspect your radiator for leaks if you find that your coolant level is low. The coolant may run out of a blocked radiator, resulting in a low coolant level. It’s crucial to check your radiator and top off the coolant as necessary since low coolant levels might result in the engine overheating.

SIGN 04: DISCOLORED AND THICKER COOLANT

You are aware of the original color of your coolant, right? Do you take care to check your coolant’s condition? If you do, you’ll be able to see that its color and viscosity have changed. The coolant will develop a dirty brown shade and feel heavier than usual when rust, sludge, and other impurities mix. Whenever this occurs to your coolant, the likelihood of accumulation rises, and the radiator’s efficiency will decrease.

SIGN 05: DAMAGED WATER PUMP

If your radiator is clogged, it can cause damage to the water pump. The water pump is responsible for circulating the coolant throughout the engine. If the coolant can’t flow properly, it can cause the water pump to overheat and fail. This will eventually lead to your engine overheating as well.

 SIGN 06: BLOCKED, BENT, OR DAMAGED RADIATOR FINS

The radiator fins are the metal pieces that protrude from the radiator. They help dissipate heat and keep the coolant cool. If they become blocked, bent, or damaged, it can prevent the coolant from flowing properly and cause your engine to overheat.

CONCLUSION:

If you notice these radiator signs, taking action is essential. A clogged radiator can cause severe damage to your engine if left unchecked. Try flushing the radiator with a solution of 50% water and 50% vinegar. You might have to replace the radiator if this doesn’t work.

 

TIPS

8 Causes For Blue Smoke From Exhaust

Excessive blue exhaust smoke can present itself for several reasons.
Here’s what to look out for:

1. Blown Head Gasket

Blown head gaskets are famous for leaking excess oil onto hot surfaces.

Blue smoke indicates that lubricating oil has made its way into the hot exhaust system or other connecting engine parts.

2. Oil Leak

Oil leaks from engine components such as gaskets, worn engine oil seals, cylinder heads, and the engine block are common. Leaks can drip onto hot surfaces, like the cars exhaust and drivetrain, which causes burning oil.

When this happens, you can expect blue smoke and a nasty smell. You’ll likely notice this blue smoke when the car is idling or accelerating.

3. Oil Mixing With Fuel

Unfortunately, engine parts like a piston ring and valve seal don’t last forever.

If you don’t follow a rigorous oil inspection routine, the oil will do a poor job of reducing engine friction. Excessive engine heat or friction can damage a gasket and valve seal over time.

Damaged piston rings and valve stem seals will inevitably leak excess oil into your engine’s combustion chamber, allowing it to mix with the fuel.

When this mixture burns in the combustion chamber, it turns the normal grey exhaust smoke blue.

4. Stuck PCV Valve

Another likely cause for excessive blue exhaust smoke is a stuck positive crankcase ventilation valve (also called a crankcase breather).

The crankcase breather is responsible for releasing fuel pressure build-up in the crankcase. This fuel pressure is diverted into the intake manifold for fumes to be re-burned.

When the PCV valve gets stuck, it forces lubricating oil to mix with pressurized air and other gases. This fume mixture eventually gets burned, creating blue smoke.

5. Blown Turbocharger

If your car has a blown turbocharger and emits blue smoke, it’s not a coincidence.

You’ll likely notice a large blue cloud of smoke right as your turbo blows. This results from a damaged turbo casing or a broken oil seal inside the turbo itself. Both causes allow oil to seep into the engine’s air intake manifold, causing oil to mix with the fuel.

6. Faulty Transmission Modulator

Commonly found in older vehicle models, a transmission modulator controls shifting in vacuum-controlled automatic transmissions.

A faulty component in the transmission modulator, like a failing diaphragm, can cause the engine block to pull in transmission fluid.

Here’s the kicker.
Burned transmission fluid creates blue smoke!

7. Bad Glow Plug (Diesel car)

If your diesel car produces blue smoke during start-up, there’s a good chance you have a bad glow plug. Another common sign of a bad glow plug in a diesel engine is longer cranking times than usual.

8. Cylinder Head Valve Guide Issue

If you notice blue smoke happening during deceleration, you probably have a cylinder head valve guide issue.

This means that the valve stem (valve guide) is leaking oil out of the cylinder wall of the combustion chamber. Oil may drip from the valve stem onto the exhaust pipe, and in some cases, even the fuel injector.

Both instances result in either blue smoke or black exhaust smoke, depending on whether the oil has mixed with fuel or not.

With a firm understanding of the causes of blue exhaust smoke, we can now cover its diagnostics procedures.

TIPS

Top 7 Common Causes of Brake Failure

Brake failure in an automobile can be serious, and each year leads to hundreds of car accidents. Some of these accidents result in serious injury or death and in all likelihood could have been avoided if the driver had noticed the signs of brake failure. Let’s consider the seven most common causes of brake failure in cars today.

1. Owner Neglect
The most common cause of brake failure is owner neglect. Brakes, like many other parts of an automobile, have a limited lifespan and should be occasionally inspected for wear. Although many brands of brake pads and shoes boast a long life, this estimate is based on standard driving patterns. If you find yourself constantly stopping and going in cities or neighborhoods, the life of the brake pads and shoes will be greatly reduced.

2. Overheating Brake Pads
Brake pads can overheat due to excessive use and become hard or brittle. This hardening decreases the ability of the pads to properly grip the wheel rotor disk, increasing the distance necessary to stop the car.

3. Damaged Rotor Disks
Damaged or “scored” rotor disks on the wheel can decrease the life of your brake pads, making stopping more difficult. Have your rotor disks smoothed or “turned” by a trained mechanic when your brake pads are replaced.

4. Leaking Hydraulic Fluid
Oil or other hydraulic fluid can leak from your car’s engine or brake lines. If you find stopping has become difficult, have your brakes inspected to rule out any contamination from a leaking hydraulic line.

5. Driving Through Mud or Water
Driving through mud or water will naturally “lubricate” your brake pads and rotor disks. Gently tapping the brakes can help remove excess water and re-establish the proper friction between your car’s brake pads and rotor disks. As always, use caution when driving in wet conditions, especially when your car’s wheels are partially submerged in water.

6. Loss of Hydraulic Brake Fluid Pressure
Loss of hydraulic brake fluid pressure will decrease your ability to stop quickly. If you find your brakes do not seem to work at all or are working only modestly, tap the brakes several times to help force fluid throughout the brake system. Though effective in helping stop your car, this technique should not be used unless absolutely necessary. Have a certified brake specialist check your brake system for any leaks and refill the reservoir with brake fluid.

7. Overloading Your Automobile
Overloading any automobile will change its ability to stop and can potentially damage the braking system. Only load your car as suggested by the owner’s manual.

TIPS

6 Warning Signs that You Might Have a Dead Car Battery

Getting stranded with a dead battery in an unfamiliar place is always inconvenient, but getting stranded with a dead battery in the middle of winter can be dangerous. Thankfully, batteries usually give us a few warning signs that they’re about to fail, so you can get a replacement battery before you’re stranded. Watch for these 6 telltale signs of a bad battery so you aren’t caught out in the cold!

1. Slow or no start while cranking

In an ideal situation, whenever one turns the key to start their car, they can hear a chirping sound that the starter makes before it lets the engine take over and begin running. 

That chirping sound is called ‘cranking’. If your car battery is dead or about to die, you’ll either not hear the cranking or experience a very slow, staggered crank when you turn the key to start your car. 

This is one of the most common signs that will tell you that your car battery needs to be checked.

 

2. Clicking sound during ignition

 Another very common sign of a dead car battery is if you start to hear a clicking or grinding sound whenever you try to start your car.

Generally, during extremely cold weather, there’s a chance that you hear the clicking or grinding more often since it takes time for the engine to crank to life.  

However, if you’re experiencing such sounds even during normal weather or after your car has heated up sufficiently, it’s a sign that you need to get your battery checked.

 

3. Engine starts but then stops

 Once you start your car and the engine cranks up, it should keep idling till the time you switch gears and start driving.  However, instead of idling, if your engine stops, your battery might have a problem.

While this doesn’t necessarily mean that you need to replace your battery since its charge was good enough to turn over the engine, it still poses an issue since it’s failing to send consistent signals. 

 

4. Headlights are dim or completely out

This might be one of the easiest signs that point toward a dead or weak battery.

If you see that your headlights are dim while your engine is idling but they start to brighten up as soon as you press the accelerator and rev up your engine a bit, you most probably have a weak battery. 

On the other hand, if your headlights fail to turn on completely, and you’re certain that they’re not burnt out, then it’s clear that you have a dead car battery.

 

5. Check those dashboard lights

There might be a lot of lights on your car’s dashboard, but two of the most important ones that you must always keep an eye out for are the battery light and the check engine light.

If you see that your battery light is on, it’s a direct indication that something is wrong with your battery. 

This doesn’t necessarily mean that you have a dead battery as it could just be a loose terminal connection or perhaps an indication that the battery isn’t sufficiently charged.

If your check engine light is on, it could mean a lot of things, which include issues due to a faulty battery.

 

6. Something smells like rotten eggs

If you smell something funny when you lift the hood of your car, don’t ignore it.

When your car battery is about to die, it will sometimes release a gas that smells like rotten eggs. This is due to the battery releasing sulfuric acid, which can cause significant damage if not checked on time. 

It’s important that at times like these you do not touch the liquid as it could be dangerous. Instead, take your car to a mechanic immediately and get your battery tested or replaced.

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