How to Test a Car Battery

If you notice the headlights on your car are dim or your engine has a slow crank, then it might be time to test your car’s battery. Knowing when and how to test a battery is crucial for maintaining your vehicle. Testing your battery regularly helps catch potential issues before they leave you stranded. Please keep reading for signs that it’s time for a test, the purpose of a battery test, and the steps to do it yourself.

Purpose of a car battery test

One reason to test your car’s battery is to avoid a situation where you get stranded on the road. It’s important to recognize the signs that your car battery could be dying. 

When to test a car battery

It’s recommended to test your car battery at least twice a year to catch potential issues. Because extreme temperatures can take a toll on your battery, it’s a good idea to test before the summer and winter seasons.

Car battery voltage

Essentially, voltage is the electrical potential difference between two points. This is measured in volts. It can also be described as the pressure from a power source that pushes electric current through a circuit, allowing it to do work.

What voltage is a car battery?

Most car batteries have a voltage of 12. More specifically, the “resting voltage” is around 12.6 volts. When the car is up and running, the voltage increases. This can range from around 13.5 to 14.5 volts when the car is running.

How to test a car battery with a multimeter

When testing a car battery with a multimeter, follow these steps:

  1. Make sure your multimeter is set to measure DC voltage and adjusted to 20 DC volts.
  2. Attach the red probe to the positive terminal (marked with a “+”) and attach the black probe to the negative terminal (marked with a “-”).
  3. Check the reading on the multimeter. If the battery is fully charged, it should read between 12.6 and 12.8 volts.
  4. If your battery is showing a reading of below 12 volts. It’s a good idea to bring the car to a professional for a comprehensive test.

How to test a car battery with a hydrometer

If you’re testing a car battery with a hydrometer, follow these steps:

  1. Turn on your headlights for about 2 minutes and then turn them off to remove any surface charge from the battery.
  2. Insert the hydrometer’s nozzle into one of the battery cells and squeeze the bulb to draw a sample of the electrolyte into the hydrometer’s scale.
  3. Evaluate the results. If the reading is between 1.265 and 1.299, it’s a healthy battery.

How to test a car battery at home without tools

Testing your battery at home is a great way to ensure that it’s in good working condition. Use the following at-home methods to help determine whether your battery is corroding, dead, or in good condition. While these methods are effective for initial diagnostics, it’s crucial to recognize when it’s time to take your car to a professional.

Load testing

Load testing your car battery at home is a practical way to assess its health without needing special equipment. Follow these steps:

  1. Turn on your car and the headlights for about 30 seconds.
  2. Observe your headlights. If they are bright, this means the battery is in good condition. If they are dim, the battery might be weak or partially discharged.

Car clicking noises

If you hear a series of rapid clicks when trying to start your car, this usually means the battery is dead. The noise comes from the starter trying to engage, but there isn’t enough battery current to make it start. If you hear only one or two clicks when trying to start your car, this means that the battery is too depleted to click multiple times.

Online battery testing

You can use a virtual battery tester online to estimate the remaining life of your battery without needing special equipment. Simply find a virtual battery tester online, enter your car details and then you’ll receive an estimate for the battery age and conditions.

Battery corrosion

The easiest way to check for battery corrosion is to pop the hood of your car and inspect the outside of the battery. Check for any green or white flaky substances in the battery terminals — these are signs of corrosion. Other signs that the battery could be corroded are slow cranking noises, dim headlights or difficulty starting the car. 

Seek help from professionals to test a car battery

While testing your car battery at home can be informative, there are times when it’s necessary for some professional assistance. If you notice persistent issues despite your efforts, it’s best to take it to a professional. Maintaining a healthy battery helps ensure your car runs smoothly and prevents unexpected breakdowns. Make sure you’re fully covered on the road by getting the right auto insurance.

What To Do With A Flooded Vehicle

The introduction of flood-water into your vehicle is never a good thing, but if your vehicle has been in flood waters, there is a list of things you’ll need to know. The first thing is do not start the car, nor should you power the car on with the key. Get the car out of water as quickly as possible, disconnect the battery, and start the recovery process as soon as you can. The longer your car sits in water, especially muddy water or salt water, the greater potential damage to key systems.

If you’re repairing water damage yourself, try the following steps. We advise contacting your insurance company quickly in any flooding situation.

Repairing a Flooded Car, Once Outside of Water

1. Do Not Start the Car

This is key. High water that is up and over the engine compartment means that water has been introduced into the intake tract, and is likely inside any cylinder that had an open intake or exhaust valve. Attempting to start the vehicle at this point will result in hydro-lock, and a damaged engine which otherwise may be repairable.

 

2. Disconnect the Battery

Disconnect the battery as quickly as possible. In fact, disconnecting the battery BEFORE a flood in anticipation that flooding could happen (like a hurricane) is a good practice. Many electrical items in your vehicle have “constant power” being run to them. Water mixed with electrical current will cause a failure in these components, where otherwise, simply cleaning and drying them can save them.

 

3. Roll Down The Windows

If possible, roll the windows down. If the windows are electric, open the doors.

 

4. Look For a High-Water Mark

This will give you an idea of the level of damage. It will usually be clear, especially on the interior. If the water mark is at a low level, below the dash, and water is just in the floor boards, this is the best-case scenario. If the water is up over the dash, then all the electrical components within the dash, and the engine itself have all been penetrated with water.

 

5. Get Any Residual Water Out Of The Car

If the water level was low enough to not penetrate the dash area, then the car is probably not a total loss. Start by getting the residual water out of the floorboards with a submersible pump and/or shop vac. You can flush these areas with fresh water and vacuum out. Along the buttom of your doors, some vehicles have plastic plugs that can be removed, and several also have these in the floor boards. Remove these plugs to let water out. If the doors have these, remove the door panels and flush the bottom of the doors out with a hose. Once all the water has been removed, you will need to put fans on the vehicle to dry out the interior quickly, or mold will develop.

 

6. Drain The Engine / Transmission Oil / Change

Regardless if the water level was lower than the engine, it’s best to completely drain and refill the engine oil, transmission oil, and differential fluid as all of these may have water in them.

 

7. Remove Spark Plugs On High-Water Vehicle

If the vehicle has been in a high-water situation where it’s suspect that the engine’s intake tract was exposed to water, you’re going to want to remove each spark plug.

The vehicle can then be either hand-spun, or cranked to check if any water is present coming out of the spark plug holes. If none is present, then water probably did not make it into the engine. Remove all the piping from the intake tract, and inspect for any mud or dirt indicating flood-water. Rinse the entire intake tract clean.

 

8. Check fuel system

Siphon out some gas and look for water. Water weighs more than gas, so make sure your siphon is at the bottom of the fuel tank. If you find water mixed with the gas, your tank will need to be dropped and cleaned.

 

9. Check Other Fluids

Brake, clutch, power steering, coolant reservoirs are sealed on most newer vehicles, but water can seep in.

 

10. Check Electrical Systems

If key electrical systems are below the water line, they will likely need to be replaced, although some can be flushed, cleaned and left to dry. Checking and troubleshooting flooded electrical will often be the most labor-intensive of all the checks on the vehicle.

 

6 EASY STEPS ON HOW TO CHECK YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID

SYMPTOMS FOR LOW TRANSMISSION FLUID

Your vehicle shouldn’t lose automatic transmission fluid in normal operation, so if the level is down, there’s a good chance there’s a leak somewhere. Consult a service professional immediately to have it addressed to avoid possible damage to the transmission. Also, some automatic transmissions do not have dipsticks or may require that a service professional inspect the automatic transmission fluid level. Check the vehicle’s owner’s or service manual.

1

Park vehicle on level surface, engage parking brake and start engine.

Leave car in neutral or park. Let engine warm up and continue to run throughout operation unless vehicle’s owner’s manual says otherwise. (Be aware that some automatic transmission fluid levels are checked with the engine off. Check owner’s manual.)

Locate automatic transmission fluid dipstick.

Typically near where the transmission or transaxle meets rear of the engine. It looks similar to the oil dipstick.

Remove automatic transmission fluid dipstick.

Wipe clean, reinsert fully and remove again. CAUTION: FLUID MAY BE HOT!

 

Observe markings at end of dipstick.

Your dipstick might have two markings for “full”—one warm, one cold. If the automatic transmission fluid level does not come up to the “warm” line, you’ll need to add automatic transmission fluid.

Insert long funnel into automatic transmission fluid dipstick hole.

Carefully add automatic transmission fluid in small increments and recheck level each time until fluid level reaches “warm” line. CAUTION: DO NOT OVERFILL OR SPILL AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID ON HOT ENGINE PARTS!

Reinsert automatic transmission fluid dipstick fully.

You’re done!

Why Are My Brakes Making Noise?

Have you ever been confused as to the sounds coming from your vehicle when you brake? From grinding and rattling to thumping and squealing, you can learn how to decode the sounds, pinpoint their root causes, and figure out what they might mean for the health of your car.

 Common brake noises and their causes

During a commercial vehicle inspection spanning three countries on April 19, 2023, 11.3% of the vehicles inspected were marked as unfit and unsafe for roadways. Among those from the U.S., 11.5% of them were out of service for brake-related violations. Even if you don’t drive a commercial vehicle, you need to know if your car’s brakes are fit for the road. Here are the top noises to listen for that could indicate a brake-related issue in your car:

1. Grinding noise when braking

Grinding noises indicate worn-out brake pads and probably mean that their metal braking plates are rubbing against the brake rotors. If this happens, your brakes won’t work as well and can result in an increased stopping distance and a higher chance of collisions. If left too long, it may damage your rotors or other braking system components.

2. Rattling noise when braking

When you hear a rattling noise, this often indicates loose or worn components in the brake system. This could range from worn brake pads to loose calipers or even issues with the brake shims. If brake pads are too worn, this can result in a warped or distorted rotor, causing a rattle when you hit the brake.

3. Thumping sound when braking

If there’s an issue with the brake drum or rotors, this often results in a thumping sound due to uneven surfaces caused by wear and tear. When the thumping is coming from the front wheels, this can mean your brake rotors are warped or deformed.

4. Squeaking or squealing noise when braking

There are a variety of things that can cause squeaking or squealing while braking, including worn-out brake pads, glazed rotors, dirty brakes, insufficient brake lining or no lubrications on the brakes. If you notice a high-pitched sound while braking, take your car to a professional immediately.

Symptoms of bad brakes

Look out for these top symptoms your brakes could be unsafe and going bad, then take your car into a mechanic:

  • Your brake light is on
  • You hear squeaking or squealing while braking
  • You feel steering wheel vibrations while braking
  • Fluid is leaking
  • The brake pedal feels soft or spongy
  • You notice a burning smell while driving
  • The car pulls to one side 

How often should you have your brakes checked?

A good rule of thumb is to get your brakes inspected at least once a year. If you don’t drive that much, you are using good brake pads or you have good driving habits, you might not need to have them replaced that often. For other info on when to take your car in for maintenance, reference our checklist. Lastly, remember to protect yourself and your vehicle with the proper auto insurance for you.

 

What Are The Best Car Colors To Buy?

The color of a car isn’t always an essential deciding factor when you’re making a purchase decision. Nevertheless, it is still quite important to most buyers.

Factors That Can Influence Your Car Color Choice

Choosing the right color can be challenging, though. Aside from aesthetics, other factors like maintenance, resale value, and cost all influence what car color you choose.

Let’s examine some of these factors to find out the best car colors

Personal Taste

When selecting a car color, the buyer’s personal choice is likely the single most important factor.

Color preferences often reflect a person’s personality. Individuals who wish to stand out tend to prefer bright, bold colors that attract attention, such as yellow, red, or green. Colors such as white, silver, gray, and black may appeal to those seeking simplicity.

Choosing a color that you admire will improve your ownership experience and the satisfaction you derive from your car. You’ll feel more satisfied with your car if it comes in a shade that suits you well.

Maintenance

Maintaining the color of your car might be difficult. Aside from pearl hues, other colors, such as black and red, need cautious maintenance since scratches, grime, and dirt are easy to spot.

White, gray, and silver are the most straightforward colors to keep clean. Lighter hues, in contrast to most dark colors, barely show dirt. Darker colors need more effort to look attractive. The deeper the color, the more scratches you’ll notice and the longer you’ll have to spend polishing body panels.

Dark metallic hues are also more prone to wear and require more care. However, these hues are the most eye-catching when they are properly maintained.

Heat Absorption

Metal is a great conductor of heat. A car coated in a dark hue will have higher heat-absorbing tendencies. Studies have shown that darker colors absorb more heat than lighter ones. Dark-colored cars absorb more heat, making the car hotter. On the other hand, lighter colors reflect heat well.

Cost

Some car manufacturers offer models in specific colors at an additional cost. For instance, Toyota’s Pearl White color is frequently more expensive than other regular colors. Mazda’s flagship Soul Red Crystal and Machine Gray hues are likewise more costly. Getting such branded car colors costs extra money.

Resale Value

The color of a car can have an effect on its resale value. Many buyers choose to buy white, black, gray, or silver cars because they retain their value better. If your car is a flashier color, you may have difficulty selling it.

There is a common misconception that brighter hues like red increase insurance premiums. This is, however, not the case. The color of a car has no impact on its insurance. The only thing insurance companies care about is the make and model of your vehicle and how much it costs to repair and replace it, among other things.

The Best Car Colors to Buy

Grayscale (Black, white, gray, and silver) colors continue to be the most popular paint colors at dealerships. Car owners like neutral colors because they are easy to clean and retain their value.

These are some of the best car colors based on popular demand:

White

White is one of the best car colors because it conceals dirt, dust, and tiny scratches. Cars painted white also reflect heat effectively, keeping them cooler for longer. Compared to other car colors, white cars generally appear newer for a more extended period of time.

Black

The sleek, glossy appearance of well-executed black paint can impart a sense of style to even the most basic vehicles. However, it fades faster than other colors. A black-colored car reflects heat poorly, and the paint coat can be expensive to maintain.

Gray

Lighter shades of gray, as opposed to black, age nicely, helping to preserve resale value. Grey cars are also straightforward to keep clean because the shade easily conceals dirt, dust, and minor damage.

Silver

Silver-colored cars have a shinier finish than gray cars, and they are excellent at hiding dirt and blemishes. Also, mud that builds on the lower panels is not as evident as on white vehicles.

Red

Red is a popular color for sports cars because of its boldness; it makes a car appear flamboyant and sporty. It’s ideal for drivers who want to stand out in a crowd. It can also effectively conceal filth and muck. However, if the red paint gathers too much dirt, it can quickly become dull. It is a hue that requires a lot of care.

Blue

Blue is popular with drivers who want to portray a calm and composed personality. Darker blue shades convey a more confident and authoritative appearance. However, these various shades of blue are often more challenging to clean and maintain. Darker shades of blue, in particular, may highlight even the tiniest bits of dust and dirt.

7 Tips to Keep Maintaining Your SUV It in Top Condition

SUVs are a popular choice among vehicle owners, thanks to their versatility and capability. Whether you use your SUV for daily commuting, family trips, or off-road adventures, keeping it in top condition is essential for both performance and safety. In this guide, we’ll share seven valuable tips to help you maintain your SUV’s optimal condition and ensure it serves you well for years to come.

1. Regularly Check and Change the Oil

Oil is the lifeblood of your SUV’s engine. Regularly check the oil level and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for oil changes. Clean and sufficient oil ensures smooth engine operation and prolongs its life.

 

2. Tire Maintenance is Key

Proper tire maintenance is crucial for SUVs, especially if you frequently go off-road. Regularly check tire pressure, alignment, and tread depth. Rotate your tires as recommended to ensure even wear and optimal grip.

 

3. Keep Up with Routine Servicing

Routine servicing is essential to address minor issues before they become major problems. Schedule regular check-ups and maintenance with a trusted car service provider to ensure your SUV runs smoothly.

 

4. Maintain the Braking System

Your SUV’s braking system plays a critical role in safety. Regularly check the brakes, including pads, rotors, and brake fluid. Address any issues promptly to ensure your vehicle stops reliably.

 

5. Check and Replace Filters

Air and cabin filters help maintain air quality and engine efficiency. Replace them as recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer to ensure clean air intake and optimal engine performance.

 

6. Keep the Exterior Clean

Regularly wash and wax your SUV to protect its exterior from dirt, debris, and UV rays. A clean exterior not only looks great but also prevents premature wear and tear.

 

7. Drive Responsibly

Your driving habits also impact your SUV’s condition. Avoid aggressive driving, sudden stops, and excessive speed. Smooth and responsible driving can extend the life of your vehicle.

 

 

3 SIMPLE STEPS TO CHECK BRAKE FLUID

Dehydration can make you feel sluggish and irritable, limiting your ability to think and move. Turns out, your car can suffer from dehydration too. Like your body, your car needs fluids to run at its best, fluids like motor oil, windshield wiper fluid, and brake fluid. But while you likely check your oil and wiper fluid every few months, how often do you check your brake fluid? If you’re like most drivers, not all that often.

Checking brake fluid is easier than you think and far more important than you could ever imagine. There’s a lot riding on maintaining optimal brake fluid levels, including your safety, your car’s responsiveness, and its overall lifespan. Without brake fluid, your car or truck won’t stop when you push the brake pedal. Talk about a serious hazard!

HOW TO CHECK BRAKE FLUID

Read on for three simple steps to checking your brake fluid at home. Please keep in mind that these instructions are general guidelines. Consult your owner’s manual for specific information about your vehicle.

  • LOCATE the brake fluid reservoir on your vehicle’s master cylinder, under the hood. Refer to the owner’s manual if you need help.
  • CHECK the brake fluid level against the “maximum” and “minimum” lines on the exterior of the reservoir. They might also be listed as “max” and “min” or similar terms, or represented by depth lines. If you see that the brake fluid is at or near the “minimum” line, it’s likely time for a brake service.
  • EXAMINE the color and clarity of your brake fluid. Old brake fluid tends to be muddy brown/black and looks like used motor oil. Like motor oil, brake fluid gets darker the more grime and debris it picks up. The dirtier it gets, the less effective it becomes. Dark brake fluid is a good sign you should consider a brake fluid flush. However, the only surefire way to know that you need a brake fluid exchange is by testing for copper levels in the fluid, a service that our friendly auto technicians can perform for you.

If checking your brake fluid level isn’t a DIY activity you’re comfortable with, no worries. Feel free to stop by your local Firestone Complete Auto Care and let our technicians take a look. It’s our job to make sure your brakes are doing theirs!

WHAT IF MY BRAKE FLUID IS LOW?

If you suspect your brake fluid level is low, it’s time to visit a professional, especially if the dashboard brake light has come on too! There could be a leak or your brake pads may need replacing. Either way, leaving it up to chance could mean a scary reduction in brake performance.

CAN I CHANGE MY OWN BRAKE FLUID?

Are you considering changing your brake fluid at home? While checking your brake fluid level can be simple, changing your brake fluid isn’t. Consider leaving a brake fluid refill, change, or flush to the professionals since doing so:

  • Can require a dozen or more tools, some of which are unique to the process.
  • Exposes you to a fluid that can be extremely toxic.
  • Threatens your vehicle’s paint job, since brake fluid can eat away at it.

5 Driving Tips for Extreme Heat

The forecast in New Jersey: Hot and getting hotter. And, that can make for troublesome travel.

When the temperature increases, decrease your risk on — and off — the road with these safety tips:

1. Check your tires. You’re already checking your tire pressure every month, right? Even if you are (most of us don’t), keep a closer eye on them during the warm months. Heat can increase tire pressure rapidly.

2. Keep cool under the hood and inside your car. If you don’t remember the last time you had your engine coolant checked and flushed (mechanics recommend flushing and refilling every two years), now is probably a good time — before you hit the road. Give your air conditioning a test run, too. If it’s not cooling you down, get it serviced.

3. Act quickly if your car starts to overheat. When your car’s temperature moves above the halfway mark on the dashboard, try turning off your air conditioning and turning on your heat to give your engine a break. Pull over if it’s safe to do so, and give your engine even more of a break. Call for roadside assistance if there’s steam or smoke, and get away from the car if it’s smoke. More of a do-it-yourselfer? Be careful opening the hood of an overheated car, and don’t add coolant or water until the car cools down.

4. See to the comfort — and safety — of your passengers. Within just 10 minutes of parking your car on a 90-degree day, the interior temperature can hit 110 degrees. Don’t leave kids or pets in a parked car, even for just a few minutes, and bring plenty of water for the trip. The back seats and cargo areas of many cars don’t get as much air as the front seats, so make sure your kids, both human and furry, stay hydrated.

5. Proceed with caution in an electric car. High temperatures (and cold ones, too) can reduce the charge of your battery, sometimes by as much as 40 percent. You’ll want to take that into account when planning a trip.

Different seasons bring different car maintenance needs. Follow these tips to help make sure you and your car both stay cool in the heat.

Top 10 Tips to Successfully Maintain Your RV

These 10 handy tips will help you successfully maintain your RV and protect your investment.

1. Inspect the roof seals and seams of your RV

Be sure to inspect your RV’s roof for leaks every three months. Water leaks can occur through any open seams in your roof’s edges, vents, skylights, or air conditioning unit. Initially, water will soak into your roof’s outer wood framework and then it will seep through the inner ceiling panels causing extensive amounts of water damage. There are a number of sealants you can use to patch up your RV’s roof leak. It is important that you use a sealant compatible with the material of your RV’s roof. RV roof materials can range from: Fiberglass, Metal, EPDM (Rubber), TPO, and ALFA.

2. Tighten your RV’s wheel lug nuts and check tire pressure.

Before every RV trip, be sure to tighten your RV’s wheel lug nuts and measure tire pressure to ensure your safety on the road. Check the vehicle’s wheel lug nuts to make sure they haven’t loosened up at any point during previous travel or while in storage. Driving with loose lug nuts is dangerous and could lead to losing a wheel on the road. In addition, checking your RV’s tire pressure is important because overinflated tires may explode, doing damage to your RV, and possibly causing you to get into an accident on the road. Underinflated tires are also dangerous, creating control problems and generating more resistance on the road, which effects your gas mileage.  Tire pressure changes as temperature increases and decreases, so if your RV has been sitting all winter, your tire pressure will have significantly dropped creating an unsafe and fuel inefficient ride.

3. Check your RV’s batteries.

The last thing you want to happen on your camping trip is a dead RV battery. Some batteries have water levels and some are maintenance free. The goal for an RV’s battery is that you do your best to keep it fully charged at all times. Batteries tend to last 3-5 years. After three years, a deep-cycle battery (towable RVs) starts to lose capacity. After five years, a start-type battery (drivable RVs) starts to loose capacity.

4. Keep waste water system in good condition.

Maintenance of your RV’s waste water system includes making sure that you are using chemicals that are designed to work with each system, whether it be gray water or black water systems. In addition, you need to use adequate amounts of fluid to start the system after flushing, and make sure that you flush the system on a regular basis. If you don’t maintain your RV’s water system, you will get excessive amounts of buildup, which may cause clogging of the system, failure of operation, and valves seizing.

5. Keep your RV’s brakes maintained.

It’s important to keep your RV’s brakes maintained for your safety as well as everyone else’s on the road. Brake maintenance should be on your RV’s spring to-do checklist. Maintain the wheel bearings and make sure that they are nice and lubricated throughout the summer.  In addition, make sure your brakes still have enough material left on them and that they’re working properly so you get a good working activation in the trailer. Brake replacements can run anywhere from $300-$500. Replacements usually include a repacking of wheel bearings and replacing the seals.

6. Clean and treat your RV’s slide outs and seals.

Slide outs need to be cleaned on a regular basis so you don’t have dirt build up in and around the seals. Not cleaning your slide out could cause problems sealing your RV. To clean your RV’s slide out, you want to lubricate the slider mechanisms to make sure that they run in and out with the least amount of wear and tear on the motors. For window seals, there are also lubricants that you can use around the rubber to help keep them fresh and pliable so that they create good seals. In addition, it allows easy movement of the windows up and down and side to side. If your windows start to catch, the felt that they slide on could begin to tear and require a replacement.

7. Change your RV’s oil.

Unlike a car that you do regular maintenance to every 3,000-5,000 miles, an RV tends to sit a lot. It’s important that you do oil changes on a seasonal basis just to make sure that everything is lubricated and running to the best of its ability. For RVs, it’s recommended to change your oil every 3,000-4,000 miles or every year (spring is a great time). If you don’t change the oil, your RV will receive excessive wear and tear on its engine and may require expensive service or even lead you to purchasing a new engine.

8. Replace the air, fuel, coolant, and hydraulic filters in your RV.

Similar to changing your RV’s oils, you need to change the air, fuel, coolant, and hydraulic filters in your RV on a seasonal basis. Usually, we recommend inspections of the air filter, fuel filter, coolant, and hydraulic filters at every oil change. Similar to not changing the oil, you could have excessive wear and tear to your RV’s engine and on the drive train of the RV.

9. Keep your RV’s awning maintained.

It’s important to keep your RV’s awning clean so you don’t get mildew and mold buildup. By inspecting it on a regular basis you can catch and repair any possible tears early on before they start to grow larger. If you don’t clean off your awning during an RV trip, debris could cause nests (bees!) to build up, or items could get stuck and tear the fabric. Depending on what type of damage is done to your awning, a tear in the fabric could cost up to $600. Replacing the awning itself is around $1,300-$1,400.

10. Make sure the electrical connection from your RV to your tow vehicle is working.

The connection from your RV to your tow-vehicle is of critical importance to your safety on a RV trip. This is what transmits your electrical signal from your tow vehicle to your RV, turning on your RV’s brake lights when you hit the brake pedal in your vehicle. This electrical connection gives you and your RV safety when driving on the road both during the day and at night. Another benefit of the electrical connection is that while you’re driving, your tow-vehicle is charging your RV’s battery through the charge circuit. Ultimately, your electrical connection makes sure your RV has good brake activation, a fully charged battery, and makes sure all your lighting is working.

 

5 Steps to Cleaning Your Car Rims

A gleaming set of wheels can make an ordinary, used car look new. And with just a little time and the right cleaning techniques, you can take your rims to the next level.

Brake dust, a sticky substance caused by friction when you apply the brakes, is highly corrosive and can cause permanent damage if left on metal rims too long. That’s why cleaning your rims regularly is important.

It’s also smart to clean the rims and tires before the rest of your car to keep dirt on the wheels from getting onto and damaging your car’s painted surface.

Now let’s get started. Before cleaning your rims and wheels, make sure you have the right materials.

Must-have materials: wheel cleaner and sponge

Brake dust can be hard to remove without the right cleaner. Select one specifically made for the material your wheels are made of. For instance, rims that are made of roughcast aluminum and chrome can tolerate stronger cleaners than those that are coated, painted or anodized.

The right brush or sponge is important, too. Opt for a natural sea sponge. Their softness and flexibility lets you more easily wipe away debris, as well as get into hard-to-reach areas. Cotton and microfiber cloths are less effective on brake dust and can even scratch your rims with debris that are not completely rinsed out.

The sponge should be used only to clean your wheels and tires. Otherwise, you risk having brake dust stick to the sponge and damage your car’s paint.

Once you have the right materials, it’s time to clean.

Steps to cleaning your rims and wheels

1. Rinse your rims

First, spray your rims and let the water soak in to loosen the grime. After a few minutes, spray with soap and water to further loosen the debris.

2. Apply the appropriate cleaner

Soak one rim at a time so the cleaner doesn’t dry on the wheel. Follow product directions about how long to leave the cleaner on. Opt for a non-acidic wheel cleaner to help prevent any corrosion.

3. Carefully scrub your rims

Thoroughly scrub the rim with a wheel brush and wipe down each of the spokes. You can use the same sponge on the tire, but as mentioned before; don’t use it on the painted surface of your car.

4. Clean the wheel well

Dirt and grime tends to get caught up in the wheel well, so don’t forget to give it a good scrubbing. Try using a tougher brush than you used with the wheels and rims, as there often is more build up in the well.

5. Spray down rims and wheel wells

Scrubbing might dislodge some of the loose dirt in your wheel, so don’t forget to do another round of rinsing. Spray each wheel to remove the excess dirt and repeat if necessary.